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Correct caulk for fiberlgass roof seams

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Brownie View Drop Down
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    Posted: 03 Aug 2020 at 1:30pm
Finally got the camper out with all of the COVID restriction somewhat eased. When through it with lube, checked all systems, sanitized, etc.. We got the camper new in the fall and used it once, so I didn't check the roof before putting it away. Yeah…I know. After getting the cover off we had a rainstorm and some water seeped in along the driver's side roof. I can see the areas that are damp inside. Not awful and I'm confident they'll dry when we run the air.
The camper headed up to Michigan's UP today, so last night I went over it and applied a high-grade silicon to all cracks and splits as a temporary measure, just to get my family on their way.
 
When it gets back I want to go over it with the right stuff. I see the Dicor Self leveling is good for the poured and larger seams to repair cracks and separations, like around vents etc., but in reading the application info, it doesn't list fiberglass as a material it bonds to. What is the correct product for the roof/wall joints, awning, etc.?
 
Thanks!
 
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mcarter View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote mcarter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2020 at 4:34pm
Dicor is right for roof, I never use silicone, I use Lexel for sides as required.  Problem spots like spoiler, use eternabond.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Kingskerswell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2020 at 2:49am
Although I have used some self levelling Dicor products on the roof I have a preference for Polyurethanes as they are durable and remain flexible.  The one I use is a commercial  construction urethane,  Sika 1A. I have used it on the spoiler and my solar panel bracket installation in addition to various home products. I also hate using Silicone sealants because of the cleanup routine when it has to be replaced.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brownie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2020 at 7:57am
Thanks. I'll take a look around. Is the Sika ok for Fiberglass, etc.? That'd be my only concern. My last unit had a rubber roof and aluminum shell, so this is new to me. I don't like using silicon either, but I had some seepage and it was heading out for the week. The silicon was readily available.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brownie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2020 at 8:49am
It didn't take long to find my answers. Also learned that Sikaflex Sealant is pretty much the same stuff as Sika 1A.
 
From a Sika Rep:
Sikaflex 1a and Sikaflex Construction Sealant have similar properties and can tackle the same applications. However, they are formulated for different distribution channels - Sikaflex 1a is for the commercial market while Sikaflex Construction Sealant is for residential.
 
My guess without reading lables and SDS's is VOC's. Someone said they compared lables and they are identical, so maybe just packaging. One person noted the 1A is approved for potable water use, so that goes back to my VOC guess.
 
The Lexel looks interesting as well although it can damage lap tape and rubber roofs. Both of these products are availale at big-box stores, so in the event one can't find Sika 1A locally, the Sikeflex is a good alternative.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Kingskerswell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2020 at 11:12pm
I guess I am somewhat biased in favour of Urethanes as in a previous life this what I was involved in, bonding fibreglass roofcaps to an aluminum body structure for the box vehicle business.  A similar product, although a 2 part derivative to reduce cure times, is used in the assembly of vehicle windshields in most autos.  I have also used it (Sikaflex 1A) in our RP177 at the corner joints when I re-sheeted the shower stall walls.  I am sure there are many similar alternate single part Urethane products on the shelves in most hardware stores, I know DAP has a product.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Marwayne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2020 at 12:36am
I like this stuff

If you want something done right, do it yourself!

2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra Limited 5.7 Litre
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brownie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 2020 at 8:35pm
How well does it last? DAP has been around since forever. They always seemed like entry level stuff, but I've never tried any of their pro products. Maybe I'll give it a shot. 

I bought some PL (Loctite's Pro Line) Poly Roof and Flashing, but may not use it. Anyone have any experience with it? I used to build custom loudspeakers and used PL Premium for it's sealing and flex properties. It's a high strength poly adhesive.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Kingskerswell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 2020 at 11:20pm
I note the Henkel PL data sheet indicates your product is an adhesive.  I would keep to a sealant type if sealing is what you want to do.  
All the PU sealants I have used will certainly outlast me.  I am renovating my exterior (house) staircase and I had to separate some old (25 yr) PU that I used to seal a wood support to some stucco and nearly wrecked the stucco as it would not separate easily.  The PU had wood and stucco fragments embedded after I cut it off. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brownie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Aug 2020 at 6:02pm
Not using the PL adhesive, using the roof and gutter sealant. I mentioned the adhesive only because I had previous experience with the brand. 


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