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    Posted: 10 Feb 2010 at 10:55pm
This is where r-Pod Nation will attempt to join visitors and members with reference material (contributed by r-Pod owners) concerning FAQs about the amazing r-Pod by Forest River.
Here we will list FAQs with links to reference material listed immediately after.
This list will grow accordingly to how many inquiries are necessary to respond on a consistant basis.
In other words, the most frequent questions that have definitive answers will be listed.
Questions concerning particular applications that and/or may produce many results can also be listed. Specifications can be listed. Procedures, etc etc etc .... so on and so on....
Please include the reference material when contributing a FAQ.
Also they can be brought to my attention via a PM or post,  and I will include it with the other FAQs if deemed relative.
What Is An r-Pod ??? Shocked
(brought to you by Sandpiper/CCDAMEEK)
If you need spare or replacement parts for your  Pod then Ms Marla Pullen is your person.

Marla Pullen
Phone 574-642-3119 ext 209
E-mail mpullen@forestriverinc.com

For Warranty Parts and Service the person to contact is Ms Susan Thornberg

Susan Thornberg
Phone 574-642-3119 ext 205
E-mail  sthornberg@forestriverinc.com

For general questions about the R POD the contact is Kristin Griffin, sales coordinator

Kristin Griffin
phone 574-642-3119 ext 213
E-mail  kgriffin@forestriverinc.com

If all else fails call the plant operator at 574-642-3119 ext 0
It sounds like a busy signal but don't hang up and the operator will be glad to help you with getting an answer to your question.

If the person you are calling is not at their desk please leave a message with your name and phone number and they will return your call as soon as they can.  E mail seems to be the preferred method of communication so if possible send them an e-mail and they will return it.
Surveyor / r-pod warranty administrator
Amber Wilson 
Phone/ 574-642-3119 x208
fax/ 574-970-6811
email/  awilson@forestriverinc.com
Surveyor / r-pod parts department
Phone/ 574-642-3119  x209
What do I look for (or do, or ask) during the "Run-Through" at the Dealer ???
by Gmandual
Check doors and hatches. Make sure doors shut, lock, unlock and seal properly.
Check seals around screen door and door.
Make sure you know how to light propane stove and that it lights properly.
Make sure that you understand how/when to use different modes on fridge, how to switch it between the different modes, and that it works properly in all modes. AC/DC and propane.
Have them show you where the bypass valves are on the water heater. Make sure valves are in correct position for operation. Make sure they show you correct orientation of valves for normal operation and bypass mode for winterization.
Have them show you how to use the water pump, and where the access panel is for the water pump.  (its under the cabinet under the sink on the 172)  Make sure water pump works. You will needs to know where the water pump is as well as the water heater bypass valves for winterization.
Check water pump operation without a hose hooked up to city water connection on trailer. Running water pump without a hose hooked up to city water connection helps make sure the backflow valve is working properly.  
Make sure water heater lights properly and heats water. Check that you have hot water in shower and in sink. Have them show you where the AC water heater switch as well as the propane switch.
Check water pressure at sink and shower. Sometimes screen on faucet has to be cleaned out because of plastic of metal shavings from manufacture.
Test all AC power accessories. If equiped with TV and Microwave test the TV and microwave to make sure both are functioning properly.
If equiped with TV and antenna have them show you operation of antenna amp (in cabinet above stove) as well as how to program in TV channels.
Test furnace to make sure that it ignites and runs properly. Check furnace for excessive rattle. Some times "junk" from construction get in the grate and can cause rattling noises.  
Test AC unit on high/low and fan only modes. Make sure it is cycling properly (on/off) when cooling.
Check fantastic fan (bathroom). Make sure it open and closes all the way with out binding and that fan runs without excessive vibration or noise.
Make sure toilet flushes properly, and you know how to flush the toilet. (sounds silly but have seen people struggle with that one. ) Wink
Check fabric undercoating on trailer. Make sure it (black cloth type stuff) covers entire bottom of trailer and that there aren't any major tears, rips or uncovered areas. This keeps water from getting into bottom of the trailer. Look up under trailer and check corners as that is usually the first sign of a problem if there is one.
Have them show you where the low point drain valves are on the trailer. (under wheel well on drivers side of 172). You need to know where those are for winterization.
Make sure the battery the comes with the trailer is a Deep Cycle battery and not a regular car battery.     Most reputable dealers will give you the right ones, but have heard folks getting the wrong one.
Make sure all light bulbs in all the lights are functioning properly.
Check tracks on the drawers. Make sure they move in and out easily and don't have excessive wobble that would indicate a broken track for one of the drawers.
If you aren't familiar with how to do it. See if you can get them to show you correct method to level the trailer.
If purchasing R-DOME or looking to purchase R-DOME in the future check screws in RDOME track on trailer. Make sure screws don't stick out and that there aren't any sharp jagged edges on the track.     
Check Grey Water and Black water release valves. Make sure they operate smoothly and seal properly.  
Check the stabalizing jacks to make sure they aren't bent or damaged. Sometimes dealers damage them while moving trailers around the lot.
Run Stove (on High) and furnace at the same time. Check to see if you hear a pinging noise coming from the propane tank. If you do then the propane regulator might need to be replaced.

DO THE INSPECTION PRIOR TO SIGNING FINAL PAPERS. Virtually all your leverage goes out the door after you sign the final papers, so you should always do your inspection prior to signing papers.
Searching the Forum:
by gmandual
Have run into difficulties trying to find old posts, and I have found they are there but the defaults on the "search' doesn't always give you what you expect so thought I would write a quick tutorial.
By default if you just hit the "Search" button and type in a phrase it appears that it searches for your words but only going back to the last six months.    If you click on the "search" button and select "Advanced" you get more options on your search.  
You can search subjects, message body, phrases, posts by specific users.    I have had the best luck finding posts by following the procedure below:
1. Click on Search Icon
2. Select "Advanced Search"
3.  Type your keywords into the "search by keywords" field
4.  Make sure that "All Forums" is highlighted in the "search forums" field
5.  Change the "find posts" field from being the default of "6 months" to "Any date" (at top of list)
6.  Click I "start search" button
This should allow you to search through all posts on the forum and should help you get what you are looking for.   The fact that the default search only searches back for the last 6 months seems to throw folks for a loop and makes some topics/info hard to find.
How Towing Weight Distribution Systems Work:
posted by PodPatrol 2/11/10
a place about towing r-Pods
Tips @ etrailer
Where can I find the VIN # on the actual trailer?
Also, whats the decoding of the VIN#?
posted by Sandpiper 2/12/10
The VIN is located on a decal on the lower front of the Pod on the left side. It is a yellow tag with other information along with the VIN   There are other tags located in the same place. 
It is also stamped into the trailer tongue on the upper left side just behind the propane bottle.
You might try
for the VIN decode info.
Or check here
Or for the real lowdown: http://www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/waisidx_06/49cfr565_06.html
What's The Deal With Batteries ???
This link is an excellent source for all things 12V.
 Do/Will I need the Lift Kit (Axle Riser?)
This link will take you to some interesting posts concerning the "Lift Kit" offered by Forest River that will lift the r-Pod body an estimated 3" above the current delivery height.
I don't believe that it actually "raises" the axle, but instead lifts the body of the r-Pod for extra clearance should you feel you need it.
What do I need to plug in my r-Pod at home ???
(information supplied by Sandpiper) 
What are my Water Line Shut-Off Valves suppose to look like during Normal Use ?
picture posted by rabuol/comments by podpatrol
The above picture is the way to have the WSOV (water shut off valves) turned during normal use.
You would turn these "opposite" for winterizing, and leave "opposite" till after flushing and/or sanitizing, then return to the position pictured above for normal use.
The picture above is allowing Cold (blue marked pipe) water to enter the WH (water heater) and a line for Hot (red marked pipe) water to leave the WH when requested. In the "opposite" position the cold water "by-passes" the WH altogether.
How Do I Winterize My r-Pod ???
posted by Outbound & TechnTrek
1) Open both low-point drains underneath the camper.
2) Attach a "blow-out plug" to the city water connection.  This has an air inlet on one end like the valve stems on your tires, and threads to attach to the water connection.  Apply LOW pressure air (less than 20 psi) for several seconds.  Any RV dealer should have one of these plugs.
3) Remove the blow-out plug.
4) Outside, remove the plug on the hot water heater to check the anode rod and replace if necessary (about every two years).  The water heater must be stored dry - do not try to fill it with antifreeze.  Wait for the water to stop running out of the drains and plug hole.
5) Re-insert the plug and close both low-point drains.
6) Turn the bypass valves on the hot water heater.  The valves are inside the trailer - mine are under the bed on the road side.
7) Inside the trailer, remove the access panel for the water pump.  On the intake line for the water pump, you'll notice a valve and about 2 1/2' of tubing that's loose on one end.  Flip the valve and put the loose end into your jug of RV antifreeze (DO NOT USE AUTO ANTIFREEZE).  The pump will now draw from the jug of antifreeze instead of your fresh water tank.
8) Turn on the switch for the water pump.
9) Turn on the taps at the sink and in the shower.  Let them run until the water is the colour of your antifreeze (pink).
10) Run the toilet until the water is pink.
11) Outside and underneath the trailer, open your freshwater tank's drain valve and allow it to empty.
12) Open the low-point drains, let them run until you see pink.
13) Pull the hose out of the antifreeze bottle just enough so it can't suck up any more antifreeze.  Turn on the sink again for a second or two until the antifreeze is out of the intake line.  This keeps the sticky antifreeze from running all over the floor when you pull the intake completely out of the bottle.
14) Close the valve near the water pump, stow the intake hose and close the access panel, turn off the power for the water pump.
How Do I Un-Winterize (Summerize) My r-Pod ???
posted by Outbound
While you're dewinterizing, its a great time to sanitize your water system.
  • Using an RV drinking water hose, fill your fresh tank 1/3 full.  Add a mix of 3/4 cup bleach and 2 quarts of water (i.e. don't add straight bleach, dilute it first).  Complete filling your fresh tank.  The sloshing around as the water goes in will thoroughly mix the bleach solution.
  • Turn on your water pump.  One at a time, turn on your taps on the sink, the taps on your shower, and flush the toilet.  Run each until clear water flows.  Turn off your water pump.
  • Go outside and open your low-point drains and let pink stuff drain out.  Screw the caps back on the drains when its done.  Go back inside, flip the switch for your water pump and let it re-pressurize your system.  Turn on both taps on the sink to 'burp' out any air that may have entered through the low-point drains.  Turn off the taps.  Then, turn off the pump again.
  • Top off your fresh tank with more water.
  • Wait for four hours and let the bleach do its work.
  • Drain your fresh water tank (there's a plug on the bottom)
  • Using an RV drinking water hose, fill your fresh tank 1/3 full.  Add a large jug (about a gallon) of white vinegar to the tank (no need to dilute it this time).  Complete filling your fresh tank.
  • Turn on your water pump.  One at a time, turn on your taps on the sink, the taps on your shower and flush the toilet.  Run each one for 15-20 seconds (until you're sure that the vinegar-water mix is coming out).  Turn off your water pump.
  • Go outside and open your low-point drains and let bleach-water drain out.  Screw the caps back on the drains when its done.  Go back inside, flip the switch for your water pump and let it re-pressurize your system.  Turn on both taps on the sink to 'burp' out any air that may have entered through the low-point drains.  Turn off the taps.  Then, turn off the pump again.
  • Top-off your fresh tank with water.
  • Wait 12 hours (overnight).
  • Drain your fresh tank.
  • Using an RV drinking water hose, completely fill your fresh tank.
  • Turn on your fresh water pump.  One at a time, turn on your taps on the sink, the taps on your shower and flush the toilet.  Run each one for 15-20 seconds (until you're sure that the vinegar-water mix has been flushed out).
  • Turn the bypass valves for your water heater.  Start with the one in the middle.  The other two valves can be done in any order.  NB: your water pump will start pumping.
  • Turn on the hot water tap on your sink.  Let it run for 3-4 minutes as your water heater fills.  It'll spit air and make quite a racket.
Thats it!  You're done!  Dewinterized and sanitized!

Please note: DO NOT use the pressure-relief valve on your water heater to 'fill' your tank.  There is supposed to be a pocket of air at the top of the tank to accommodate expansion of the water while its heating.
Changing Water Heater Element in a 2010 r-Pod 177
posted by Sandpiper
(this may also apply to your model, then again, it may not. Please check your documentation.) 
**Yeungling is optional**
Lesson one:  Buy your replacement element from Home Depot #014717158961  120V 1500W Camco # 2142  cost $9.67.  The same element from a RV site was $11.36 with $6.98 shipping. A Suburban element # 520789 will set you back at least $19.50 + $4.59 shipping.

Lesson two: You will need a Screw in Element Wrench Camco # 15493 also available from Home Depot#014717154932 for $6.47.  Unless you have a much better selection of wenchsShocked than I do you will need to have this wrenchThumbs Up if you want to remove and replace the element.  It is a 1 1/2" wrench that looks like the "old" spark plug wrenchs.  You young whipper snappers will have to look it up.
Lesson three:  It is simple to replace the element .

OPEN the HOT Water faucet and leave it open until you are finished with replacing the element and refill the water heater.
Look at the manual figure 15 page 9 and remove these parts.
1.) The burner assembly(item 26)
2.)The outlet Manifold (item 37) along with items 55 and 56 which are the tubing nuts that are on item 37.  This stuff has to be removed to get the element out.
3.) Remove the three screws holding the element cover (item 24 and it's gasket)
4.) Remove the two wires attached to the element.
When the next step is performed the water heater will drain so be ready.
5.)Using the Element Wrench and a screw driver, remove the screw in heating element(item 28)
6.)Install the new heating element and using the Wrench and screw driver tighten the new element snug. Reverse the above steps and replace the items that were removed.
Now refill the water heater and when no more air comes out of the faucet, close the faucet and re apply 120v to the Pod and to the water heater.  Wait about 1/2 hour and the water should be rather warm.   The water heater has a recover rate of approx 6 gallons per hour so 1/2 hour should yield some rather warm water.
You are done and have saved at least $50 to $75 probably more at today's mechanics rates.
My cost $24.09 + a Yeungling(optional) because I didn't learn about Home Depot Elements until I had ordered one on line.
It didn't take me an hour to replace the element and the tools I used were
1   Cresent wrench
1   Phillips head screw driver
1   slotted head screw driver
1   7/16" open end wrench
1  5"(long)Screw in Element Wrench
and One Yeungling
***Yeungling is optional***
What's the deal with RV Water Pressure ???

Low Pressure will Drive you Crazy - High Pressure will Burst your Pipes - What's a Person to Do?

One of the biggest complaints we hear from customers is that they don't have the right water pressure supplied to their RV. It's usually too low, and they can't get enough water to take a decent shower. Sometimes, it's too high, and they are afraid of bursting their plumbing. From our experience on the road, we know that you will encounter both types of problems, but there are very reliable ways of overcoming them. First, let's explore the problems in more detail.
     Pressure or Flow - What's the Problem?
Many people don't understand the difference between pressure and flow, but you need to in order to solve your problem. "Flow" is a measure of volume of water delivered in a period of time. The poor shower is caused by low flow, as are most other RV water supply problems. "Pressure" is a measure of the force of the water, and it is measured when no water is flowing ("static" pressure). It is true that for a given plumbing system, the higher the pressure, the better the flow. However, there is a practical limit to increasing pressure to improve flow.
     Don't Let Your Pressure Get Too High
RV plumbing systems are usually tested to a pressure of about 100 to125 pounds per square inch (psi), but to prevent warranty problems, RV manufacturers may recommend only 40-50 psi. Unfortunately, this may not provide the shower you're looking for. Most house plumbing operates at about 60psi, and this can be adequate for RVs, too. If your water supply pressure is approaching 100 psi, you are risking an expensive failure of your plumbing system. You should limit your pressure to 60-65 psi to be safe, and to do that, you can install a pressure regulator.
Causes of Low Flow in RVs
Size matters, particularly in regard to water flow through pipes and orifices, and the bigger the better. Anything that reduces size in a plumbing system creates a restriction to flow. Restrictions can occur at any point in your RV from the park's valve to your kitchen sink or shower, and they are cumulative. Several modest restrictions in your plumbing system can drastically reduce the flow at the shower head. So, let's start at the beginning of your water supply line and look at causes of restriction and fixes available.

     It Starts With The Hose
The hose you use to connect your RV to the water supply may be the first cause of flow restriction. Many RV water hoses are pretty cheap, and they are prone to kinking or collapsing. If your hose does that, you are suffering from a flow restriction. The solution here is to use a better hose that resists deformation.

     Pressure Regulators Also Cut Flow
We talked about pressure regulators earlier and think they are a wise investment. However, while protecting you from excess pressure, they may be seriously reducing your flow. Like many plumbing fittings, regulators inherently restrict flow, but some are worse than others. Generally speaking, the more expensive regulators can accommodate a much greater flow of water than the cheap ones. We sell a complete line of pressure regulators, including industrial-strength, high-flow, adjustable units.

     Filters Can Reduce Flow Significantly
Filters work by forcing water through very small orifices to strain out the contaminants. Fortunately, there are a huge number of "holes" in a filter, and the bigger the filter unit, the more "holes" it has, and the better the flow. So, to achieve better flow through a filter, use a bigger filter that has more filtration area. A small, in-line filter restricts flow more than a 10-inch standard canister, and the standard canister is more restrictive than a jumbo canister. So, if you are using filtration on all of the water used in your RV, you will want to go with the largest filtration system that will fit your needs to avoid flow restrictions. Another factor to consider with filters is that as they get plugged with contaminants, their flow rate decreases. If you find your flow rate dropping when you are using filters, it may be time to clean or replace them. 


The clear canister to the right is a good example of a plugged filter, it's a wonder these folks are getting any flow at all.

Conversely, if you never notice a decrease in flow, you'd better check to see if your filter is working!

     Internal Plumbing Systems may Be Inadequate
Manufacturers will scrimp on anything and everything to cut costs, and this includes the plumbing system. Undersize pipe and restrictive fittings can contribute to the low-flow problems you experience. If you check the flow in a brand new RV that is hooked up to a municipal water system, everything may look good. But, if you take this same rig out to an RV park and hook up a pressure regulator and a filter, it may suffer. Unfortunately, there is not much you can reasonably do to improve an RV's plumbing.
     Fixtures Can Also Seriously Reduce Flow
Your plumbing fixtures are the final place that flow restrictions can occur. Sink faucets and shower valves often have very small orifices that seriously limit the amount of water that can pass through them. Sometimes, these restrictions are removable, and are included to meet Federal water consumption standards. In any case, you can find better-flowing fixtures by carefully shopping around.
Black and Gray Water Holding Tank Maintenance

By Charles Bruni
Everyone who owns an RV should be concerned with maintaining its wastewater tanks. Problems with wastewater tanks that can be avoided should be avoided. Wastewater tank repair is expensive. Due to health concerns, many service facilities will not work on wastewater tanks and lines until the tanks have been completely emptied and sanitized. This may be quite difficult when the tank(s) is in need of repair. So, common sense dictates that the tanks should be kept relatively clean at all times. Additionally, improper use of the wastewater tanks can lead to a build up of solid wastes, which in itself may cause the system to fail.

I’ve discovered very simple, effective, and inexpensive methods of maintaining my wastewater tanks in a relatively clean condition at all times. I developed these methods myself through my understanding of chemistry, physics, and biology with a smidgen of common sense thrown in for good measure. I also read my RV owner’s manual. Although we are not full time RVers we use our fifth wheel camper at least one weekend a month. We never use public bathing and toilet facilities. In other words, our wastewater tanks are fairly heavily used. Since I’ve met a number of RVers who don’t seem to know how to maintain their wastewater tanks I thought many RVers would find my tips useful. If you have not been maintaining your tanks I believe you will be pleasantly surprised the first time you employ these tips. I do these things and they work.

When you are camping and your RV is connected to a sewer/septic intake, leave the drain valves closed until the tank is full and ready to dump. Dumping a full tank provides a sufficient quantity of water to flush solids from the tank. Leaving the drain valves open allows the water to drain off without flushing out solid waste. That solid waste will collect in the tank(s) and cause problems over time.

In other words, dump the black (commode) water tank first, then dump the galley tank, then dump the shower and bathroom sink tank. This way you will be flushing out the dirtiest water with progressively cleaner water.

This stuff is amazing and it works. Buy a couple of boxes of powdered water softener at the grocery store. You’ll find it located with or near the laundry detergent products. I prefer Calgon Water Softener because it dissolves quickly in water. Cheaper water softeners work just as well but dissolve more slowly. Dissolve two (2) cups of the water softener in a gallon of hot water. Then, pour the solution down the drain into the empty tank. Use two cups of softener for each wastewater tank in your RV. The tank’s drain valve should be closed otherwise the softened water will just drain out. Then use the tank(s) normally until it is full and drain it normally. Add a cup of laundry detergent to the black (commode) water tank at the same time. This will help clean the tank.The gray water tanks should already contain soap through normal use.

The water softener makes the solid waste let go from the sides of the tanks. If you’ve ever taken a shower in softened water you know that after rinsing the soap from your body your skin will feel slick. That’s because all the soap rinses away with soft water. Softened water also prevents soap scum from sticking in the tub. Get the connection? With softened water gunk washes away instead of sticking. The same thing applies to your RV’s wastewater tanks.

I use one of those clear plastic elbow connectors to attach my sewer drain line to the wastewater outlet on my RV. It allows me to see how well things are progressing during a wastewater dump. Before I began using water softener regularly the black water tank’s water was brown, the galley tank’s water was brownish, and the bathroom tank’s water was white. The first time I added water softener to the tanks the water coming from the black water tank was actually black (not brown) and the kitchen tank’s water was also black (not brownish). The bathroom tank’s water remained white. That told me that the water softener had actually done what I had intended for it to do and made solid waste, which had been stuck to the interior of the tanks, let go and drain away. I added water softener to all the wastewater tanks for the next few dumps to be certain all the solid waste possible had been cleaned away. The wastewater only appeared black on the initial treatment. I now add water softener to each tank once after every few dumps to maintain the system.

Occasionally, I pour a gallon of liquid bleach into each tank to sanitize and disinfect them. I no longer use the blue toilet chemical because it isn’t necessary. I have no odors coming from my black water tank. Generic brand liquid bleach is cheap and very effective.


Most fresh water contains sediment. Sediment will accumulate in your wastewater tanks and your fresh water lines. It also tends to discolor your sinks, tub/shower, and commode. I use the disposable type and have found that they eventually fill up and begin restricting the fresh water flow resulting in low pressure. That’s how I know it’s time to get a new filter. It works, it’s cheap, it avoids problems, do it.

• I believe occasionally traveling with partially filled wastewater tanks that contain softened water promotes cleaning by agitating the water. The same goes for chlorine bleach.
• I believe this process works faster and more efficiently during warm weather. However, I know it works well even during cool/cold weather.
• I believe the process works best the longer the water softener remains in the tanks. So, I don’t add water softener during periods of heavy wastewater generation. I wait until I know we won’t be generating wastewater quickly so that the softened water remains in the tanks for several days before dumping.
• I add a small amount of chlorine bleach to the fresh water tank twice a year to disinfect and sanitize the fresh water tank and fresh water lines. A weak chlorine bleach solution will not hurt you. However, it certainly makes the water taste bad. When we have chlorine in the fresh water system we use bottled water for drinking and cooking until the chlorine is gone.
• My tanks are plastic and my pipes are PVC.
• Don’t be afraid to use your tanks. Just use common sense about their care and maintenance.
• These tips are inexpensive to do. Some of them don’t cost anything. You have nothing to lose in trying them and I encourage you to do so. I actually feel a certain amount of pride in the condition and cleanliness of both my waste and fresh water systems. Naturally, these tips make dumping a much more pleasant and sanitary procedure.
• If you have odors in any of your water systems these procedures should eliminate them. Odors indicate a sanitary problem and degrade the enjoyment you derive from your RV.
• When my RV is parked and not in use I place stoppers in my sink and tub drains. This allows the wastewater tanks to vent through the vent pipes to the outside instead of through the drains into the RV.

Copyright 2007 by RVbookstore.com
posted by Sandpiper
Since there seems to be a little confusion about the grease to use with the R Pod's wheel bearings, I decided to do a little investigating to see what I could find locally.
Here are the results of my investigation.

1.) Walmart -- Super Tech - Muti Duty Complex Grease -  #68113147282 - $3.22/ 14oz tube

2.) Tractor Supply -- Lithium Multi Purpose Grease - # 08 04941  - $1.49 / 14 oz tube ( since the tube says "formula is a secret" I would be a little leary of this one)

3.) Auto Zone -- Valvolene Automotive & Industrial General Multi Purpose Grease - # W609- $3.99/14 oz tube
      Auto Zone-- Coastal All Purpose Grease - $2.99/14 oz tube

4.) NAPA -- Premium Performance Multi Purpose Wheel Bearing & Chassis Grease - 75-600 - Price not marked

So there are some of my local sources for grease compatible with what is called for by Lippert.

The warning to not mix greases doesn't mean you can't use a different brand it means don't mix Lithium based grease with Molybdenum based grease or any other base.  The base of the grease should be clearly marked on the container.

The important things to look for are Lithium or Lithium Complex.
DO NOT use Molybdenum or Moly based greases. 

Look for NLGI No. 2 on the tube.  If possable look for a drop point equal to or greater than 446deg F .  Those are the main things you need to be concerned with when purchasing grease for your R Pod wheel bearings.
posted by olphart/Sandpiper
Battery Monitor Translation:
posted by Outbound
C - Charged
G - Good
F - Fair 
L - Low
posted by etrailer
Sometimes a sway control system is not needed to get sway under control. If the trailer is riding nose up, switch to a draw bar with a lower drop and get the trailer level. Check out this article:

You can also try re-organizing the load in the R-Pod. Too much tongue weight or hitch weight can make the rear of the vehicle squat which isn't good. The opposite condition is just as bad, maybe worse. Too little weight on the nose and the trailer can get squirrely. The best way to check if your tongue weight is to low is to hit up a truck scale and do some weighing.

Load the Pod like you were getting ready for a trip. Head to a scale and pull just the Ridgeline onto the scale with the RPod hitched to it. This will give you the combined weight of the truck and tongue weight of the trailer. Take the Pod off and weigh the truck. The difference is the tongue weight of the trailer.

Weigh the RPod by itself. That's the gross trailer weight. The tongue weight should be between 10 and 15% of the gross weight. If it's not, re-situate the load get the tongue weight in that range.

If all this is in order, than sway control may be needed. I would check those first because I find nothing more frustrating than making a purchase to fix a problem, only to find that it doesn't.
Thank-You !
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