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Like moving into a new house

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rpoders2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rpoders2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2010 at 11:41am
Originally posted by pepperpod pepperpod wrote:

Brin
We let the dealership talk us out of the clear fantastic fan cover. They said that we would be getting a lot of heat from it.  After this past week, it may be good that we did not do it. LOL Instead, we had them put a window in the door of our 172.  It lets in a lot of light. I would like to have a MaxAir cover installed so that we can keep the fan cover open during rainy weather.
Windows are good.  Here's an idea...how 'bout a fan cover that gives you the option of clear or traditional heat protection...something that slides from inside the bathroon?????????
Ellen, Dick (2 legs)
Mo Chara (the camping cat) Dudley (the world's best camping dog)
RPod 173
'07 Honda Pilot
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rlfoxworth View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rlfoxworth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jul 2010 at 6:05pm
Hi,
 
Can you shed some light on the LED's? Which type and where to get it?
 
Thanks,
 
Richard, Angela & Justin (Two & a Half Pioneers)
Exploring with our "Pioneer-Pod"
R-Pod 175 - 2010 Toyota Tundra
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rlfoxworth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jul 2010 at 6:26pm
BTW, I just found and tried a 4-watt landscaping lighting wedge bulb for 12volt systems from H.D. and it worked great.  I wanted to have  a few dimmer lights than all bright ones.   They carry packs of 4 for about $5.00 .  They carry 4, 7, 11, and 18 watt bulbs. 
 
Richard, Angela & Justin (Two & a Half Pioneers)
Exploring with our "Pioneer-Pod"
R-Pod 175 - 2010 Toyota Tundra
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbmcginity Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 1:48pm
LED Bulbs - I've replaced some of the bulbs in our 176 with LED bulbs from superbrightleds.com. It took me some time to figure out their website and identify the correct bulb. I went with WLED-WHP18T Cool White. They are 194/168 Wedge Based. They are described as 12VDC 18 Cool White High Power LED.  I put 2 in the fixture over the sink, 2 in the overhead fixture in the center, and 1 in each of the bunk bed reading lights.  They were a little less than $20 each plus shipping.  Although a bit dimmer, they are bright enough for us and much cooler than the standard incandescent bulbs. When changing the bulbs I noticed that there were already scorch mark in the most used fixtures.
 
Another item of interest that I learned from their web site was that you should go with an amber LED bulb if using in a fixture with an amber lens like our porch lights. If you use a white one most of the light is filtered out by the amber lens.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PodPatrol Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2010 at 12:54pm
Originally posted by mbmcginity mbmcginity wrote:

LED Bulbs - I've replaced some of the bulbs in our 176 with LED bulbs from superbrightleds.com. It took me some time to figure out their website and identify the correct bulb. I went with WLED-WHP18T Cool White. They are 194/168 Wedge Based. They are described as 12VDC 18 Cool White High Power LED.  I put 2 in the fixture over the sink, 2 in the overhead fixture in the center, and 1 in each of the bunk bed reading lights.  They were a little less than $20 each plus shipping.  Although a bit dimmer, they are bright enough for us and much cooler than the standard incandescent bulbs. When changing the bulbs I noticed that there were already scorch mark in the most used fixtures.
 

Another item of interest that I learned from their web site was that you should go with an amber LED bulb if using in a fixture with an amber lens like our porch lights. If you use a white one most of the light is filtered out by the amber lens.


Great info !!! Thanks for sharing !!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don Johnston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov 2010 at 10:23pm
At the request of profmagickb here is a step by step.
 
Details of Split Folding Bunk
 
Step 1. Remove all bedding and mattresses from both bunks. You will be making a lot of sawdust.

2. Mark for the cut. Come out about 1/8th inch from the bathroom wall and with a square, mark a line backward on the bunk, toward the front of the trailer. You can do this on either the top or bottom surface.

3. Make the cut with a power saber saw. You will be able to cut all but the last inch or so on each end (side) of the bunk. Use a hand saw to finish the cut.

4. Separate the bottom piece of plywood from the bunk. It’s stapled on, but the staples are smooth and pry out fairly easily.

5. At the bottom right end of the bunk score a line with a pencil from front to back on the side wall of the trailer. This line will be to locate the right side support under the bunk.

6. Remove the screws from the back side (front of the trailer) and the right side of the bunk. The folding portion of the bunk is now free to take to your shop or where ever to make modifications to it.

7. There are 1" X 2" "studs" running from front to back in the bunk. Add one more stud parallel to the others and just even with the new cut. I glued mine in place and secured that with barbed paneling nails.

8. Get two or three good strong door hinges and inlet them into the rear surface of the bunk. They need to be inletted deep enough so the outside of the hinge is flush with the rear surface. That way the bunk can be fitted back into its original position. Screw the hinges to the bunk.

9. Cut a 1/8" X 2" piece of aluminum to about 42". Round the corners and remove any sharp edges. Screw it to the top left edge of the bunk with about one inch extending over the edge. When the folding bunk is in place the aluminum strip will rest on the top of the portion of the bunk that was not removed.

10. Attach a bar bolt to the bottom right front surface of the bunk. Attach an eye screw to the left front corner. This completes the modifications to the folding portion of the bunk. You can stain and/or finish the cut surfaces.

11. Back inside the trailer there are the cut surfaces of the top and bottom of the remaining bunk. To dress that off, glue and nail another piece of 1" X 2". Depending on how close the last existing "stud" is, you may have to split the new 1" X 2" lengthwise. It cannot extend out past the cut plywood edges, or it will interfere with the folding portion of the bunk.

12. Cut a piece of 3/8" plywood to about 3" X 42". Radius the corners on one edge. Cut a 1" X 2" to 44". Sand both pieces carefully to remove any splinters or sharp edges. Stain and finish both of these to match the interior of the trailer. I used a Pecan stain that matched really well.

13. When the pieces from #12 are dry, glue and screw the plywood to the bottom of the fixed part of the bunk, so approximately one inch of it extends out from the edge as an additional support for the folding part of the bunk. The screws should be at least 1 ½ inch long and should get a good grip in one the studs in the fixed part of the bunk. Use at least one every 4 inches.

14. Glue and screw the 1" X 2" stained piece on the right wall just below the line scribed in step 5 above. The more screws the better in this one.

15. Lay the prepared folding part of the bunk on the supports you just made and mark the bottom position of the hinges with a pencil.

16. Prop the folding bunk up at its highest (folded up) position and locate the hinges at their scribed position. Screw the hinges to the wall. It may help to have a helper for this step.

17. Clean up the sawdust.

18. Put the mattress back on the top bunk, and raise it to its "up" position. Allowing a little room for bedding, mark the position of the bar bolt on the right wall of the trailer. Lower the bunk and drill a hole for the bar bolt.

19. Raise the bunk again and lock the bunk in the up position with the bar bolt. On the left side of the folding bunk I used a wall anchor with an eye screw to secure a hook latch to the ceiling of the trailer. That, with an extra piece of wire attached to the bottom eye screw supports the left end of the bunk when in the up position. I am not completely satisfied with this support but it has held for one year including a trip to Alaska without trouble. Perhaps a strap of velcro might work as well.

20. You will have to cut the right support to clear the bar bolt, and there may be a few other details I've missed. This is about as detailed as I can remember.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Don Johnston 11-21-10
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote profmagickb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec 2010 at 1:48pm

Don, Thanks for the detailed info, I really appreciate the time you took to explain it.  You certainly went above and beyond my expectations.  Thanks for being a genius.This is a very much needed mod for my pod. 

I noticed on the 182G the whole top bunk folds up, pretty neat but you loose the storage.  I like what you've done much more.
 
Thanks again
Clint
I have good ideas....... sometimes
2011 176T
why don't you come with me little girl, on a magic R-pod ride
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plantkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2011 at 9:24am
Don Johnson,
Cool windows mods.   I also have a 172 and the front is really dark...
I just ordered the round door window and the two front bunk windows.
Could you please take some close up shots of the windows?   Also, did you take the door off to cut the round hole?   Thanks in advance.
2010 R-POD 172 (version 1.0)
2007 NISSAN FRONTIER SE 4x4 w/ Prodigy P3
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kmcmurph Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2011 at 10:08pm
I was wondering how much bigger the hole for the socket is in the plywood. I just added one and it is just touching the plywood and I don't know if I should make the hole bigger. I don't think it will get too hot just charging a cell phone?
Karl, Kerri and the hounds:: 5.4L '04 Expedition:: 2010 177
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill & Greg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 1:22pm
Sure wish you live closer to Iowa.  I would like some help puting in windows.  Not sure if I will try it myself or not.  If you make a mistake, it would not be good! 
2009 R-Pod 172, 2009 Ford F-150.
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