Lubricating Bearings and Other Bearing Information |
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Sandpiper
Senior Member Joined: 19 Aug 2009 Location: IL Status: Offline Points: 763 |
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Posted: 25 Mar 2010 at 4:20pm |
The proper procedure for lubricating the wheel bearings on the r-pod is found on the Lippert web site. Lippert is the manufacturer of the axle and suspension on the r-pod
The lube procedure is found here. http://www.lci1.com/OwnersManuals/Trailer-Axle/Trailer%20Axle%20Lube%20ADD-Web.pdf As you can see, lubricating the bearings on the r-pod is relatively painless. The grease gun and cartridges can be purchased at Wal-Mart or any auto parts store. I carry a grease gun with me anytime I'm pulling a trailer and give the bearing a couple of shots of grease before each trip. The wheel hubs on the r-pod are "Super Lube Hubs" by Lippert which are equipped with grease fittings for easy greasing. The recommended grease is found here on page 7 of this more general manual. http://www.lci1.com/OwnersManuals/Trailer-Axle/Trailer%20Axle-Web.pdf In researching this information I also discovered Lippert has an on line store where one can purchase replacement parts for the running gear of the r-pod. http://store.lci1.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=lci&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=935131251&Count2=852271676 For quick reference: Complete wheel hub assemblies from Lippert PN 045-122460 545-1/2" 3500# cost $54.65 This includes the hub, bearings and seal ready to install. The bearings, races and seal for the tapered axle (1 3/8" X 1 1/16") are as follows: Inner Bearing L68149, Inner race L68111 Outer Bearing L44649, Outer race L44610 EDIT:Added more seal part numbers Double Lip Seal Trailer Axle Hub 1.72" ID X 2.565" OD Lippert # 045-122087 or Dexter # 010-019-00, National 473336, NOK AD2548E0, TCM 171255TB, SKF CR17144 All of the above can be purchased as kits complete for one wheel. For example eastern marine offers this kit. Other kits can be purchased from auto parts stores, tractor supply stores etc. http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=4730&categoryID=188 Which sells for $14.50 but has a single lip seal and I would recommend a double lip seal for better sealing. I always carry an extra set of bearings, races and seal in case the bearings decide to give up the ghost at the worst possible time. But I am now considering carring a complete hub assembly for the same reason. It would make getting back on the road much, much simpler and much less of a hassle. |
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Sandpiper
Mrs.'Piper Ford 150-[Mini Lite 2104S] |
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HobitPod
Newbie Joined: 25 Mar 2010 Location: Edmonton, AB Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Thanks for that info. There was none of that in the package that I got with the RPod. When I had the Tent Trailer all that information came with the Fleetwood unit. If I had that info I may have been able to check them but your not sure without it. Anyway will be picking up the 175 in a couple of days and may see if I can contact Forest River about the bearings and may even send them to find out if there was a problem with them or not. Thanks again for all your information and ideas
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05 Avalanche: 5.3L: HobitPod-175 Jim & Sue
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Larry
Senior Member Joined: 22 Jan 2010 Location: Fairfield, CA Status: Offline Points: 344 |
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Thank you very much for the information. This would have never crossed my mind because I got absolutely no info on this when I purchased my pod and I never lubricated the bearings on my previous trailer, which I did a lot of camping in for almost 6-years; so because of my ignorance would you please explain in simple terms why we need to lubricate the bearings? I'm really learning a lot here. Thanks! |
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Outbound
Senior Member Joined: 25 Jul 2009 Location: Oshawa, ON Status: Offline Points: 750 |
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Are your rims different from mine? In order to access the zerk fitting, I have to jack up the trailer and take the tire off.
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Craig :: 2008 Mazda Tribute :: 2009 r-pod 171, The Johnnie Ray
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HuronSailor
Senior Member Joined: 10 Jun 2009 Location: Owosso MI Status: Offline Points: 860 |
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Great info, thanks for doing the research. I've printed it and added it to my rPod info folder I keep "aboard."
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.: Mark & Beth :: Silverado 5.3L :: "arrrr"Pod 172 :: My Albums :: OurPod Blog ::
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Sandpiper
Senior Member Joined: 19 Aug 2009 Location: IL Status: Offline Points: 763 |
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[/QUOTE]
Are your rims different from mine? In order to access the zerk fitting, I have to jack up the trailer and take the tire off. [/QUOTE]Well, I don't know for sure since I haven't seen your wheels but on mine the silver (chrome ) center piece must be pried out thereby exposing the rubber cover in the center piece under the outside cover and covering the grease fitting. That isn't a very good explanation. If you look at the picture on the bottom of the page found at this link you will see an item labeled "Plug" . That plug is removable exposing the underlying rubber cover. http://www.lci1.com/OwnersManuals/Trailer-Axle/Trailer%20Axle%20Lube%20ADD-Web.pdf Hope this helps. EDIT Oops, that isn't right. There is a second Plug which must be attached to the wheel but it too is removable because I removed and reinstalled it yesterday. It is plastic so be careful removing it. |
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Sandpiper
Mrs.'Piper Ford 150-[Mini Lite 2104S] |
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Outbound
Senior Member Joined: 25 Jul 2009 Location: Oshawa, ON Status: Offline Points: 750 |
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For clarity on my question asking whether things have changed on later-model r-pods: on my 2009 RP171, there's some work to get to the grease nipple...
First, the rim/tire has to be removed, Then, the dust cap must be removed, AHA! There's the Zerk fitting! (Click Here for a higher-resoution shot where you can see the Zerk fitting in the middle of the hub)
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Craig :: 2008 Mazda Tribute :: 2009 r-pod 171, The Johnnie Ray
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Sandpiper
Senior Member Joined: 19 Aug 2009 Location: IL Status: Offline Points: 763 |
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Outbound
The wheel and hubs that you show in your pictures are the same ones that are on my r-pod. You do not have to remove the tire and wheel to get to the grease zert. The center of the silver cover in your first picture is removable. I know it doesn't look like it is but it is. The black center of the dust cap in your second picture is rubber and it too is removable. By removing the two covers (plugs) the grease zert is reachable without removing the wheel or the whole dust cap. The hard part is removing the first(outside )cover because as I said it is plastic and very tight but it is removable. I hope this clears things up. If not let me know and when it warms up, it is 20 deg F out side right now, I will take pictures and post them to show what I am talking about. The sad part of all this is that Forest River should have put this information in their Manual. |
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Sandpiper
Mrs.'Piper Ford 150-[Mini Lite 2104S] |
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Sandpiper
Senior Member Joined: 19 Aug 2009 Location: IL Status: Offline Points: 763 |
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Larry, you are right about going long periods of time without lubeing your bearings nor repacking them. It is something a lot of people don't do. I pulled a trailerable boat for a lot of years and was acutely aware that the wheels were submerged in water every time I went sailing. Even though I faithfully repacked the bearings every year and gave them a couple of shots of grease before every trip I still had a catastrophic failure once in 17 years. Once was enough and luckily I had spare bearings, races and seal to make repairs on the road. I'm considering purchasing a spare complete hub just as an insurance policy in case it happens on the r-pod. Lippert sells the complete hub with bearing, races and seal already packed with grease for about $55 . I think that is a pretty inexpensive insurance policy but still no substitute for proper maintenance. To answer your question as to why you should regularly lubricate your bearings and repack or have them repacked at least once a year of 12,000 miles. In normal operating conditions the grease heats up and over time becomes less effective. It also will collect dust and metal particles from the rotating parts of the hub and axle. If the seal becomes torn or worn to the point it doesn't seal properly, dirt, water and other contaminants can enter the hub and cause wear to the internal components. If the seal doesn't seal, it can allow grease to exit the hub and get on the brake components and make the brakes ineffective. By giving the hubs a couple of squirts of grease each time you take a trip you push some of the old grease out and new grease is introduced thereby replacing the grease along with any contaminants over time. If you check the old grease that comes out you can detect early if water has entered the system or if lots of dirt is getting into the system. By repacking the bearings annually or every 12,000 miles you allow yourself to evaluate all of the components in the hub-axle system and replace any that are worn. The seal is replaced every time the bearings are repacked as a part of the repacking procedure so you have a new seal each time the wheels are repacked. Something else to remember is that if a bearing needs to be replaced, always replace the matching race. A second benefit to repacking the bearings is that the hubs must be removed exposing the brakes and the brake components can be checked and replaced or adjusted if required. There are most likely other reasons for lubricating the bearings and repacking but I can't think of them right now. After saying all the above, let me say there are sealed systems that do not require periodic lubrication but the hub-axle system on the r-pod isn't one of them. At least not yet. |
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Sandpiper
Mrs.'Piper Ford 150-[Mini Lite 2104S] |
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Outbound
Senior Member Joined: 25 Jul 2009 Location: Oshawa, ON Status: Offline Points: 750 |
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The next time I have my r-pod home from the storage lot, I'll take a look at it. However, my impression was that its a 1-piece metal cup.
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Craig :: 2008 Mazda Tribute :: 2009 r-pod 171, The Johnnie Ray
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