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DRAINING HOT WATER TANK?

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web2323 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote web2323 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct 2010 at 8:21am
I have tried for hours to get my anode out.  The darn thing won't budge. 
 
I was practically jumping on the ratchet and it won't move!
 
I think I may have to hit it with the air gun.
 
Any tips? 
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Outbound View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Outbound Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct 2010 at 9:55am
Originally posted by web2323 web2323 wrote:

Any tips?

De-pressurize the system by turning on the kitchen faucets.  Open the relief valve on the water heater.  Use a long-handled ratchet (in the 18" range at a minimum).  Get a good stance on the ground and apply lots of pressure at the base of the ratchet; the nut should slowly release.
Craig :: 2008 Mazda Tribute :: 2009 r-pod 171, The Johnnie Ray
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jinhe&Me Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct 2010 at 12:04pm
I had the same problem with mine.  I tried in vain for hours with every imaginable tool.  I had to borrow a friend who spends time every day at the gym and has the muscle to show for it.  He also has a trailer of his own and thought there was something wrong with me that I couldn't tackle the anode.  Till he tried.  After he got bloodied up from getting sliced by the exhaust cover and with me applying pressure to keep the socket in place, the thing finally moved.   Glad we did get it off as there was a lot of water in the tank.  I had depressurized it as well before the attempts but likely a combination of being installed a bit overtightened and some apparent corrosion, it was a bear to get loose.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rpodmania Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct 2010 at 1:34pm
Ya the first time I tried to remove mine last fall took a lot of effort to get the thing to start turning
Its was way over tightened at the factory you gotta wonder what these people are thinking that assemble the parts Wacko
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gepaine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 1:19pm

Does anyone know if there is a torque spec for the drain plug? If we knew how much torque to apply, then we won't over tighten it nor should it leak.

Gene & Linda - 2007 Escalade - 24-Foot Keystone Cougar TT- Life is not just about gas mileage!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote movingwaters Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 2:28pm
What should the anode rod look like when removed?  When I removed it, it is covered with white gooky material and looks corroded.  However, I know they are supposed to disintegrate with time as they do the job and have to be replaced.  So how do you know when to replace?  Are the rods available at most RV places?  Cost?  Ours is a 3 year old r pod but we don't usually use the water heater......it has had very little use.  Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Outbound Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 3:33pm
Quote So how do you know when to replace?

Technically, the anode should be replaced when most of the sacrificial material (usually aluminium, sometimes magnesium) has been eaten away, leaving just the metal core.  But, as most of us check the anode once a year, it should be done when there's not enough sacrificial material left to last until the next time you check the anode.  The speed at which the anode wears away differs depending on the water; for me, it seems to be three seasons.

You can buy a replacement plug+anode from most any RV dealership.

Camping World's Suburban anode page has a good picture of a new and worn out anode.
Craig :: 2008 Mazda Tribute :: 2009 r-pod 171, The Johnnie Ray
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Outbound Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 3:37pm
Originally posted by Outbound Outbound wrote:

Open the relief valve on the water heater.

I've since been advised not to do this.  After its a couple of years old, the relief valve may not seat itself properly again and may leak.
Craig :: 2008 Mazda Tribute :: 2009 r-pod 171, The Johnnie Ray
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sandpiper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 3:58pm
I deleted what I was going to say since Outbound said all I was going to say.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mary & Don Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 5:52pm

A seasoned camper recently told us that when the anode is bare we should just insert a radiator plug and discard the anode because the material on the anode would have coated the hot water tank and there is no need to replace.  What do you think?

Mary & Don
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