Having issues winterizing |
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chickenbuc
Newbie Joined: 10 Jan 2010 Location: Auburn, AL Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 8:24pm |
We are fairly new to camping and have an Rpod 173. Sorry if this post is in the wrong place but my husband is outside in teh dark trying to winterize our pod and cannot locate the hot water heater drain plug and the water pump.
Can anyone tell us where exactly the water valves would be? They are not under the sink and we cannot find them under the camper..HELP! -Susan |
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Kenn
Senior Member Joined: 15 Jan 2010 Location: Fort Drum, NY Status: Offline Points: 612 |
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- Hot water drain plug is the anode. it looks like a hexagon bolt. Unscrew that, leave it off.
- Remove the low point drain plugs for the hot and cold water lines.
- Use a blow out adapter on your city water connector and blow it out with air. About 45 PSI is good.
- Water pump is under the sink. turn it on and follow the sound. It should have a hose attached to it to "suck" anti freeze. run some anti freeze to it. Bypass you pump.
- Take the plug under you fresh tank. Leave it off. Take the same blow out adapter and blow out your fresh water tank.
- If you haven't drained you grey and blank tanks, do so. Pour some anti freeze in the sink and the toilet.
This should take you less than 10 mins. Good Luck!
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2010 RPOD 176 (Silly-POD), 2011 Forest River Stealth 2612, and 2014 Forest River XLR 380AMP |
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JoOwl
Newbie Joined: 20 May 2010 Location: Spartanburg, SC Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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JoOwl/Jo/Josephine
2010 171, 2010 Toyota Sienna |
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JoOwl
Newbie Joined: 20 May 2010 Location: Spartanburg, SC Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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We have found the drain under the fresh water tank on our 2010 RP 171. But we can find the two line drains. Where are they?
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JoOwl/Jo/Josephine
2010 171, 2010 Toyota Sienna |
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JoOwl
Newbie Joined: 20 May 2010 Location: Spartanburg, SC Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Er, that's supposed to have been cannot find the two line drains...
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JoOwl/Jo/Josephine
2010 171, 2010 Toyota Sienna |
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Spud Pod
Newbie Joined: 29 Nov 2009 Location: Troy Al. Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Mine are behind the drivers side tire between the axle and frame. Sorta hard to get to !
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joe&carol
Senior Member Joined: 22 Apr 2009 Location: Golden, CO Status: Offline Points: 126 |
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Sorry, I may be too late, with my comments, your question having been posted last evening. Having said that, I notice that some latter comments might lead you astray a bit. Specifically, on the R.Pod 173, the water pump is underneath the seat at the front of the unit on the side opposite the door. Probably a year earlier on this site, someone posted some great pictures of what this looks like complete with instructions about how to use the cut-off valves and use pump to draw in the anti-freeze.
My other comment pertains to draining the water heater . . . Before removing the annode, make certain you've released the pressure in the tank by flipping over the relief valve located at the upper right corner of the water tank while you're standing outside the r-pod and have removed the door to the water tank. Without the pressure released, the annode can shoot out and harm someone while it is being removed.
Otherwise, good luck. Joe
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Joe & Carol
r-pod 173 |
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JoOwl
Newbie Joined: 20 May 2010 Location: Spartanburg, SC Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Thanks. Ours were in plain sight, now that you told me where to look. Not hard to get to, except for the solidified foam gunk around them. |
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JoOwl/Jo/Josephine
2010 171, 2010 Toyota Sienna |
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chickenbuc
Newbie Joined: 10 Jan 2010 Location: Auburn, AL Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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Thank you for the info about the 173. Is the annode the copper hexagon bolt at the bottom of the water heater when accessed by the outside panel? I thought it would be under the R-POD below the water heater, but the bolt I am speaking of is on the side. It's the only one I see that could possibly be it.
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joe&carol
Senior Member Joined: 22 Apr 2009 Location: Golden, CO Status: Offline Points: 126 |
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Yes, you are looking at the correct bolt, which will require a 17/16" socket. [If you don't have such a socket and go to buy one, pay attention as it will most likely require a 3/4" drive that is 5-6" long and you will have to get one of those also.] [The reason for the long drive is that your ratchet handle will not fit inside the compartment where you have to work.] Most likely, the annode will be very tight. so be prepared to use a "cheater" (piece of pipe about 24" long or something similar that will slip over the handle of your ratchet and give you leverage).
Before going much further, go back to the rpodnation.com site and look at page 2 of the archives under "Maintenance Issues" . . . . There are two previous discussions that might help you. Start with the one entitled "Winterization" that was started on 10 Aug 2009. After that, you might want to also look at the "Draining Hot Water Tank" that was started on 10 Oct 2010.
As always, good luck! Joe
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Joe & Carol
r-pod 173 |
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