Like moving into a new house
Printed From: r-pod Nation
Category: Forest River r-pod
Forum Name: Modifications
Forum Description: Mod your Pod....then post your pictures
URL: http://www.rpodNation.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1063
Printed Date: 20 Apr 2024 at 7:32am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.0 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Like moving into a new house
Posted By: Don Johnston
Subject: Like moving into a new house
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2010 at 11:26pm
|
Just bought our new R-Pod last november. We didn't get a chance to take it out after the bugs got worked and before the temps went below freezing. So I've been spending a lot of time this winter modifying and adding to the R-Pod to make it suit my needs as much as possible. Things like toilet paper holders, paper towel dispensers, towel racks, mirrors, etc. are never there in a new place.
My wife, Judy, and I are planning on driving to Alaska next July, so we want to make sure everyting is as comfy as possible. Thanks to some suggestions I've seen on the R-Pod Nation I think I'll have it ready to go by spring.
Here are some of the mods I've done so far. I'm going to try to attach pictures, hope that works, too. Mine is an R-172 with the two bunks in front.
Installed a 12 volt (cigarette lighter) outlet in the cabinet above the stovetop where the TV plugs in. Now I can plug an inverter into the 12 volt outlet, the TV into the inverter, and run the TV from my batteries. The existing wiring also allows enough power for a 12 volt crock pot, so I can be cooking a crockpot dinner in the trailer while I'm driving.
I purchased extra netting and hooks from Forest River, put in some oak supports above the oven, so we can now store light items, such as bedding, towels, and paper products in that unused space. I think the photo of that also shows a towel rack on the back side of the oven.
The major mod we did was split the top bunk in two. I cut it even with the front edge of the shower, removed all the attaching screws, and put hinges in back (front of the trailer) of the bunk, to allow it to swing upward. There I put in a bar bolt and a hook to keep it up and out of the way when not in use. I anchored a 1X2 to the right wall and screwed a plywood and an aluminum strip to the left side to hold both ends in its functional position. We'll put both mattresses on the bottom bunk unless someone is going to be sleeping in the top bunk. Now we have extra storage on the remaining fixed part of the bunk, plus we can sit on the bottom bunk without bumping our heads on the top bunk. This is one mod we planned on doing even before we bought the 172.
I replaced the single propane tank holder with a dual holder.
Finally, just today I installed a porthole window in the door. You would not believe how much light that lets into the front of the trailer. I don't have a picture of it yet.
 |
Replies:
Posted By: pepperpod
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2010 at 11:47pm
|
Wow, sounds like you have been busy. We all love pictures on this site. I know that I am anxious to see the window in the door and hear how you did it. Thanks for sharing. ------------- Pepper,Coach,and Henry (a very brave little Maltese) R Pod 172 The rewards of the journey far outweigh the risk of leaving the harbor...unknown |
Posted By: yizit
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 12:09am
|
Welcome Don. You sure have been busy. After we ordered ours without the upper bunk, we wished we would have left it in and thought about doing exactly what you did....live and learn. Would love to see pic's. Raising the lower bunk to bench height is something we are glad we did. Have many happy and safe travel.
------------- Former owner of 2009 Rpod 172 Darlene & Jim, Ewok our Lhasa Roada our 2004 Roadtrek 190P Conversion Van |
Posted By: sylviablue
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 10:08am
 Busy busy busy. Would love to see more pictures. I'm sure you'll be ready for Alaska long before July!
|
Posted By: Don Johnston
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 12:04pm
|
OK,
Here are the rest of my pictures that I was not successful in uploading last night. I also took photo's of the door this morning.
  Here's the bunk. Note the cargo net to the left of the folded up part.
 I couldn't get a very good angle on the door because of where it's parked, but you can get the idea.
 For those who may be interested, this is what the core of the door looks like. I assume the walls are similar.
 Don
|
Posted By: this_is_nascar
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 12:15pm
|
I really do like the door. Great job.
------------- "Ray & Connie" - 2017 R-Pod RP-180 - 2007 Toyota Tacoma TRD-Off Road |
Posted By: PodPatrol
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 1:45pm
|
Great Mods Don ...
I really like the "round" window in the door ....
You should post these in the Modifications section as well ....
Im sure that door window is going to be a big "hit' here !!!
|
Posted By: Tink
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 2:32pm
|
Will you please come to the Eastern Roundup in June and do my door? I love that. ------------- 
Tink'rPod 174 Knoxville,TN, |
Posted By: Tink
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 3:03pm
|
Where did you find the window? -------------
Tink'rPod 174 Knoxville,TN, |
Posted By: pepperpod
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 3:43pm
 ------------- Pepper,Coach,and Henry (a very brave little Maltese) R Pod 172 The rewards of the journey far outweigh the risk of leaving the harbor...unknown |
Tink wrote:Posted By: Larry
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 5:49pm
|
After seeing what you’ve done to your door I called a local RV dealer service department and they said they would install a window in my R-Pod 171 for about $200.00 parts and labor; things are expensive here in California as they are in many other places. I am also going to have a skylight put in the ceiling over the dining area. I wanted to put a window on the front of the r-pod looking out over the hitch but it was ill advised because of the way the front is constructed. I just got my r-pod 171 a few weeks ago and I’m doing a lot of modifications right now that when done, sometime in late February, I will post some pictures here in this forum for everyone to see. Some of the mods, like the window in the door, I got from you kind folks. It is "like moving into a new house." |
Posted By: pepperpod
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 7:28pm
|
Thanks for the information. I have not taken possession of my 172 yet. I think I will ask the dealer to put the window in my door. We are having them change the cover on the fantastic fan to one that lets light in.
------------- Pepper,Coach,and Henry (a very brave little Maltese) R Pod 172 The rewards of the journey far outweigh the risk of leaving the harbor...unknown |
Posted By: yizit
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 8:20pm
|
Thanks for sharing those pic's. Great job on every thing. As soon as the snow melts and the ice thaws we'll be visiting the closest dealer to install that window.
------------- Former owner of 2009 Rpod 172 Darlene & Jim, Ewok our Lhasa Roada our 2004 Roadtrek 190P Conversion Van |
Posted By: Don Johnston
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 8:43pm
|
You can find a "porthole window" easily by doing an internet search. I got mine from ebay. It's a 12" round porthole that fits about right. All it takes is a drill and a jigsaw or sabersaw to cut the hole. Then you put a little silicone caulking around the outside and inside flanges, and screw it all together. It took about an hour from start to finish with mine.
A trip back east does sound enticing, altho maybe not till 2011, after the Alaska trip. Most of my family is on the East Coast. In fact, 'Sandpiper' take note. I graduated from Mansfield Senior High School in 1957.
Don
|
Posted By: Brin
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 8:46pm
|
How thick was the window that you purchased to fit the door? ------------- Terri and Craig and Panzer R-pod 175, 2009 2000 F250 XLT Extended Cab, Diesel |
Posted By: Don Johnston
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 9:47pm
|
The window mounts in a 1 1/2 inch thick surface. That is exactly what the door thickness is.
Don
|
Posted By: Sandpiper
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 10:22pm
|
Don Just noticed your post about graduating from Mansfield High School. When you make your way back East you will have to stop by and we can do some camping at Ives Run Camp Ground near Wellsboro. It may have not been there when you were here. It was built after the floods of 1972 and the COE built three flood control lakes and two really nice camp grounds. But you probubly already knew that. By the way, I like what you did with the window in the door. Can you share where you purchased your unit? ------------- Sandpiper Mrs.'Piper Ford 150-[Mini Lite 2104S] |
Posted By: Don Johnston
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2010 at 10:10am
|
I havent been to Mansfield since 1962 on my honeymoon. Used to live about 2 miles South of Hills Creek reservoir.
I've made the drive between Salt Lake and Mansfield three times, all back when there were no freeways. In most cities you had to drive right thru town. I think it would be much easier now, especially with the R-pod.
I purchased my R-Pod from Motor Sportsland in Salt Lake City.
|
Posted By: Sandpiper
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2010 at 11:03am
|
Don You will definately have to visit when you come East. Hill Creek is where I launched a home made canoe on her maiden voyage. I came here in 1992 and love this area. I am jelous that you are going to Alaska this year. Please post a lot of pictures so we can sit home and drool. That trip is on my Bucket List --- maybe next year. The interstate road system is nice for getting from one place to another quickly but I think one misses the real flavor of America by traveling on it. We traveled approx 2000 miles on our initial voyage (camping trip) with the r pod, mostly on the interstate. Useing the interstate makes pulling the r pod easier over long distances. ------------- Sandpiper Mrs.'Piper Ford 150-[Mini Lite 2104S] |
Posted By: PodPatrol
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2010 at 12:49pm
|
How long of a voyage is Alaska ?? (pulling a Pod)
For some reason it's sounding enticing ! |
Posted By: Tink
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2010 at 9:07pm
|
Oh my gosh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 Ted, You are wonderful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I LOVE IT. -------------
Tink'rPod 174 Knoxville,TN, |
Posted By: Tink
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2010 at 9:32pm
|
My husband needs to know what you started your hole with. He didn't see a I found them on e-bay. I'm ready to do it, well, maybe not me exactly. -------------
Tink'rPod 174 Knoxville,TN, |
Posted By: PodPatrol
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2010 at 10:00pm
Not done yet tink ... I'm resizing to avoid the scroll bar to the right of the signature block.
But I'm get'n there !!!
Thanks !!!
|
Posted By: Don Johnston
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2010 at 10:17pm
|
Here is one manufacturer of a porthole window of the same size and configuration as the one I used. http://www.crlawrence.com - www.crlawrence.com Do a search for 'porthole' on their site and it should come up. I believe their list price is $65.00. Noone ever pays list price anymore, do they?
Start the hole with a 1/4 inch drill or larger, whatever size you need for your jigsaw blade to go thru.
Fairbanks, Alaska is, according to Mapquest, just over 3,000 mile from Salt Lake City. Anchorage is about the same. It's about 400 miles from Fairbanks to Anchorage. I'm figuring on between 7 and 8 thousand miles for a round trip. I'm planning on leaving June 28, and returning sometime before the end of July. I'm leaving my Brittany Spaniel and my guns (it's dificult taking them into Canada) here in Salt Lake. I'm taking my wife, my camera, my number 8 fly rod & reel, and my bear spray. That's probably a pretty good priority list, too! I have relatives of freinds who own a brewery in Soldotna. I'm told the resort at Chena Hot Springs is really neat and Denali National Park is something everyone should see. It will be a trip of a lifetime for us.
If anyone would like to join us, start making plans. The first thing on the list is a passport. Wouldn't it be neat to have an R-pod carravan to Alaska?
Don
|
Posted By: Pie_Pod
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2010 at 10:44pm
|
Don, that sounds like a great trip. I was in Alaska when I was in my twenties and I would love to go back one day to explore. In the summer, of course. I hate cold weather. Of course, there is a lot of sunlight in the summer.I did get sun poisoning when I was in Alaska. (of course, I am very fair skinned).
(I'm also sort of excited that Pod Patrol likes the idea). I think we would need to wait a few years until he is retired.
------------- ~cindy (Pod_Patrol's Girl) |
Posted By: photog
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2010 at 11:39pm
If all goes according to plan we will be leaving around the same time for the Yukon and a bit of Alaska. We will be mostly visiting with family and friends in the Yukon, we lived there for 16 years.
If you have the time plan on spending a few days in Whitehorse, Yukon. Park the Pod and take a day trip south to Skagway, Alaska. It is really outstanding scenery and you could take the
White Pass and Yukon train for an excursion up through the White Pass. (google it)
Another day trip from Whitehorse is south to Atlin, BC., it is really worth the trip.
On the way up stop at the Liard Hotsprings, it's north of Muncho Lake in B.C.. The springs are natural, no concrete pool and are VERY hot at the top end. There are change rooms but the last time that we were there the security lockers did not work, so leave whatever you can in the trailer.
The springs are part of Liard Provincial Park, the camp ground is nice and we stayed there once with our fiver but I can't remember what services there were, probably only hydro. There is a private park across the road for when you are desperate.
Who knows, might run into each other somewhere up there.
------------- Heinrich and Elly 2010 Dodge Dakota Crew Cab Prime Time Tracer 205 M |
Posted By: Kenn
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2010 at 11:57pm
I was planning on installing a 12V socket. Where did you get the wall mount? Was it manufactured or off the shelf as is? Was it easy to install the wiring off the converter? How mush fuse did you install? Also, I would like to get dual tanks and battery as well, but unsure how much this would add to the tounge weight of the trailer. Thanks 
|
Posted By: PodPatrol
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 12:06am
|
I think the tongue weight of the r-Pods are around 220 - 245 ?
two full 20lb LP tanks = 75lbs ?
two 12V batteries(group 27)= let's say 150lbs ?
perhaps a case/cover & base for the tanks, and a case(s) for batteries, plus the hardware to bolt it all down. Say another 30lbs ??
|
Posted By: Kenn
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 12:29am
| Does that directly increase the tongue weight by those weights or is it a portion of those weights? |
Posted By: Larry
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 2:12am
|
Don, oddly enough Anchorage, Alaska is about 3,000 miles from the San Francisco Bay Area as well; where I will be leaving from in April and returning in June. It’s a very adventurous trip and I can’t wait to camp in western Canada Yukon Territory; there is only one road that goes into Alaska; Highway 1, which I’m told is a two lane undivided road with gas stations far and few between; so I’m bringing a 5 gal. can of gas along with me just in case. Looks like we’ll both have some stories to tell but I’ll be getting back just as you’re about to leave. I'm fairly sure we'll see some bears and most definitely moose. |
Posted By: yizit
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 7:42pm
|
Don....we wish you were leaving one year later (or a few months later) and we would join you. Having a caravan would be kewl and it is always safer to travel with someone else. Have a great trip.
------------- Former owner of 2009 Rpod 172 Darlene & Jim, Ewok our Lhasa Roada our 2004 Roadtrek 190P Conversion Van |
Posted By: Don Johnston
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 10:43pm
|
Nice work on the Tink'rpod, Tink!
Thanks for the tips on the trip, folks. It's going to be a lot of driving, but there's going to be so much to see along the way. I have a copy of "The Milepost" that shows the whole drive, mile by mile. It has a nice write up on Liard Hot Springs.
I'm planning on taking extra gas (probably two gallons) for my generator, that I can use in a pinch for my truck. My truck has a 34 gallon tank, and I usually run on the top 2/3rds of that, so I should be OK. That brings up the subject of MPG discussed in another topic here recently. I get about 14.5 MPG without the trailer, but haven't yet checked it with. I'm hoping for 12 but won't be too disappointed if it runs closer to 10 MPG. That's with a Chevrolet Silverado K2500HD with the 6 liter engine.
I purchased the 12 volt outlet at the same place I bought the trailer, Motor Sportsland. I wouldn't be surprised if Auto Zone, Checker Auto, Pep Boys, or maybe even Camper World would have them. Mine came complete as an assembly. I tapped into the existing wires going to the light in the cabinet over the stove. They are a 14 gauge wire, that will handle 15 amps, or about 180 watts. That's what the line is fused for as well. Carry an extra fuse just in case. The light itself only draws 5/8 amps.
That's another subject. I found some led lights that are interchangeable with the 921 lights in the fixtures. They draw a whole lot less current, but are not nearly as bright as the existing 921's. The LED's draw .025 amps. The 921's draw .625 amps. The larger overhead fixtures have two lamps, so double the current for those. The 921's would drain your batteries in 100 or so hours if left on. With the 921 LED's you would hardly notice the difference. Caution: if you ever work with the 921 lamps while they are turned on, do not touch them with your bare fingers. They run extremely hot. I learned the hard way.
I lowered my hitch on a bathroom scale tonight, because I was curious myself. Including two full propane tanks and two batteries it is 241 pounds. It probably was around 200 before the extra tank was added. Being that close to the hitch, most of the weight of the tank would be on the hitch.
|
Posted By: PodPatrol
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 11:10pm
|
Do you currently have anything on the "back" of the r-Pod, such as the spare tire??
And was your r-Pod "level" when you weighted it ?
Perhaps retaining a few 921s could brighten things up alittle. Replacing some with the LEDs is still helping some-what, just use the bright fixtures for those times ya need "bright" light.
Sounds as if you are well on your way to a most "excellent" adventure Don ...
We hope it's a trip of a Life-Time for ya !!!
 |
Posted By: Kenn
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2010 at 11:42pm
|
241 sounds fairly light, but I'll take your word for it. It gives me the warm and fuzzy that adding those things would not be so bad in increasing the tongue weight after all.
Thanks
 |
Posted By: Don Johnston
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2010 at 10:37am
|
I have a spare tire on the back. If it were not there the tongue weight would be more. I'm actually thinking about replacing the spare tire with a bike rack. I can store the spare in the back of my truck much more easily than I could haul two bikes.
My pod was level front to back when I weighed it. It was leaning to the side just a bit.
I've changed the lights in one overhead fixture to LED's, and left the original 921's in the other. There are two single light fixtures in the back of the 172, over the dinette. I'll change one of them to LED's. Both bunks each have a single fixture. I will probably change both of them to LED's. There's one fixture over the sink/stove that I will leave as is.
Don
|
Posted By: pepperpod
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2010 at 12:13pm
|
When you change the lights over the bunks let us know. We are getting a 172 and I like to read before going to sleep. I will need something bright enough to read by. Let me know if the led is bright enough. Thanks
Pepperpod ------------- Pepper,Coach,and Henry (a very brave little Maltese) R Pod 172 The rewards of the journey far outweigh the risk of leaving the harbor...unknown |
Posted By: PodPatrol
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2010 at 1:08pm
|
Sounding Good !!!
A slight side tilt could effect your reading, to what degree I have no idea. After a certain point, every thing sounds Greek to me !! I am pretty certain that something on the back of the Pod would effect the tongue weight. Some where in the process weight on the rPod frame itself becomes a concern. I'm sure the mixture of light sources is a good idea, keep us informed ! |
Posted By: ramblin jim
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2010 at 7:18pm
|
I too, would like to know where you found the nice round window. In reference to your picture of the core that came out of the door: I cut a pretty large hole in my ceiling in order to install a skylight above our table. I found the ceiling to be made of a layer of fiberglass, fiberglass insulation(instead of a nice rigid foam) and a thin veneer of wood on the inside layer. We are happy with the skylight, but the curve in the roof makes it hard to install a flat window or skylight. It took quite a bit of work to make it right and look professional. I am not sure I would recommend it to anyone. Jim ------------- Be the person your dog thinks you are. |
Posted By: Don Johnston
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2010 at 11:09pm
|
I purchased the "round porthole" on ebay. They are manufactured by CR Lawrence. I've since purchased two 14 inch square portholes (also from ebay) that I plan on adding to the front of the sides, where my 172 doesn't have any windows. We are having really nice weather in Utah this week, so I may get that done soon.
Susan at FR was happy to send me a print of the sidewalls that showed structural members in the walls. I won't be cutting any of them. She also gave me a headsup that by cutting into the walls I will void any warranty on the walls. I don't expect that to be a problem.
Someone had suggested using velcro for window shade attachment on the door window. I plan on using that for my door and also for the right side window where my folding bunk doesn't allow clearance for a drapery rod. A self adhesive velcro strip above the window should work just fine. The mating velcro can easily be sewn into some fabric for the shade.
Don
|
Posted By: PodPatrol
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2010 at 11:31pm
|
Your get'n er Done Don !!! Great infoe !!!
Is the print of the sidewalls something that could be shared ?
I ask this due to the fact that most owners won't be cutting into the walls,
but sometimes put'n a screw here, or there, might be aided by knowing where the supports are, or where they are not.
Glad your having nice weather, and get'n those "Mods" accomplished.
The pictures you posted are great. Keep'm coming !!!
Be sure to use the MODIFICATIONS folder to post them so we can easily find them for reference.
Thanks !
|
Posted By: Mamajomba
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2010 at 9:36am
|
[QUOTE=PodPatrol]Your get'n er Done Don !!! Great infoe !!!
"Is the print of the sidewalls something that could be shared ?
I ask this due to the fact that most owners won't be cutting into the walls,
but sometimes put'n a screw here, or there, might be aided by knowing where the supports are, or where they are not."
I'm curious, if they are shared, would the 177's be different from the 172's?
Thanks,
Mamajomba ------------- Mamajomba "just poddin along" in a R-pod 177 |
Posted By: PodPatrol
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2010 at 10:35am
|
I'm assuming, but perhaps all 17* models may be similiar to a certain point.
The Slide models of course would be different concerning the Street-Side of the slide models. But perhaps from that point on, they might be identical. Just a thought ...... Wouldn't it be nice to know the paths of the electrical wire runs too !!! |
Posted By: Don Johnston
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2010 at 10:24pm
|
I've tried to upload the files of the wall structure from FR, but cannot. There were actually two files, one a .bmp and a .mht. I would offer to email them to anyone interested, but I had trouble downloading them to my own email server, so I'm not sure that would work. I'll work on saving them as a different file form and see if I can get that to work.
Don
|
Posted By: PodPatrol
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2010 at 10:55pm
| Ok, thanks Don !!! |
Posted By: David and Danette
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2010 at 9:01am
|
It would be great if Forest River could post a diagram or picture of the frame work of all the RPod models. They could add that the warranty on the walls is voided once someone cuts into it. Would be a great help for those in doing modifications. David ------------- SWFL 171 2010 Jeep Liberty |
Posted By: Don Johnston
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2010 at 10:06pm
|
Okay, I figured out how to do it! Here are the sidewalls of the 172. I blieve this can be called interior view of the far side wall.
Don
 |
Posted By: yizit
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2010 at 11:38pm
|
I'm a bit confused here.....are there ANY vertical or horizontal supports? What I'm seeing are lines for the items inside of the pod. I would like to know where the metal supports are located. Am I missing something here?
------------- Former owner of 2009 Rpod 172 Darlene & Jim, Ewok our Lhasa Roada our 2004 Roadtrek 190P Conversion Van |
Posted By: Don Johnston
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2010 at 9:54pm
|
About 1 foot back from the front edge on both sides there is what appears to be a vertical piece, perhaps a 2X2. I wasn't worried about the rest of the trailer.
Don
|
Posted By: sylviablue
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2010 at 6:20pm
|
I think I'll leave my walls alone . . . .
------------- In the end there's just a song comes cryin up the night |
Posted By: Don Johnston
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2010 at 10:37pm
One of two new windows in my 172 (one on each side).
And here is a cross section of the wall panel. It measures 1.3 inches thick, with a 1/8th inch thick plywood layer on each side, then a thin layer of plastic on the inside and a 1/16th inch layer of fiberglass on the outside. There were no structural members in the cut.
This is not a job for just anyone to experiment with, but I have no fears of the resulting structural integrity. After all, in all other models there is a full size window in the same location. Because of the bunks in the 172 there is not room for that large window.
 Don
|
Posted By: VenturaTom
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2010 at 1:10am
|
Thanks to Don for posting that sidewall schematic and the cross-section of what came out of his door. Along these lines I think it would be very helpful if someone could come up with even a basic wiring diagram of the Pods. I'm afraid this would be difficult, as I'm sure each Pod model is significantly different. In similar way a basic plumbing diagram would be nice to have too! When putting in my water filter unit, to my dismay I found attached to a three way directional valve a water hose to nowhere! That's disturbing..  Just a few thoughts....and nice work Don. ------------- 2006 Dodge Ram Mega Cab Cummins 5.7L Turbo-Diesel R-Pod 177 Owner Former VW Camper then Tent/Dirt Camper |
Posted By: yizit
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2010 at 10:10am
|
Could your hose to no where be for winterizing? In our 172 under the sink area we have a hose that is used for antifreeze.
------------- Former owner of 2009 Rpod 172 Darlene & Jim, Ewok our Lhasa Roada our 2004 Roadtrek 190P Conversion Van |
Posted By: yizit
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2010 at 10:13am
|
Don thanks for sharing. We have plans to add a window in our door as soon as the snow melts. I'm sure the windows added much needed light in the 172.
------------- Former owner of 2009 Rpod 172 Darlene & Jim, Ewok our Lhasa Roada our 2004 Roadtrek 190P Conversion Van |
Posted By: Tink
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2010 at 5:02pm
 Look what you've started! I wasn't gonna stop until I got a porthole. I don't think there will be a privacy issue because Larry went inside and put his face right up to the window and I could not see him. I'm not used to looking at the Pod without Tinkerbelle on it! Is that really mine? It was an absolutely beautiful day. There was this big ball of fire in the sky that I hadn't seen for a while and it got up to 63 degrees. We did have a little trouble with the frame. We cut the hole the size of the window and the inside frame was 1/8" bigger than the window. It was a little scary have to go back and cut the hole bigger!-------------
Tink'rPod 174 Knoxville,TN, |
Posted By: GrandPod
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2010 at 8:03am
|
Tink
The window in the door looks really good. Your temperatures are almost as high as ours. We haven't seem temperatures above 70 very much this winter.
Tom ------------- Tom And Linda Rpod 177 Southwest florida |
Posted By: AllGood
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2010 at 8:05am
|
Nice job on the window in the door, can you offer some info as to price of the window and where you purchased it from? How difficult was it to install? ------------- R-Pod 172 2010 2010 Nissan Pathfinder |
Posted By: Tink
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2010 at 6:41pm
|
Hi Allgood, I found my window on ebay. It was $59.95. I can't remember the dealer but it's a van window. There was also another dealer and the window was $79.95. Look for porthole windows on ebay. It really wasn't hard at all to install. Putting that first little hole in the door was the hardest part.(No going back after that!) Funny thing was that when we went to put the frame on the inside of the door the hole was too small and Larry had to make the hole bigger. I would suggest to measure the inside AND the outside. We did not get a template with ours and I think we were supposed to. The frame was aluminum so we painted it black. Good Luck! -------------
Tink'rPod 174 Knoxville,TN, |
Posted By: PodPatrol
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2010 at 11:10pm
|
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-AUTO-GLASS-12-ROUND-PORTHOLE-WINDOW-VAN-TRUCK_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad25fcceeQQitemZ390076550382QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-AUTO-GLASS-12-ROUND-PORTHOLE-WINDOW-VAN-TRUCK_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad25fcceeQQitemZ390076550382QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?Productid=20967&GroupID=11385&History=30587:21889:2089:10566&ModelID=11385 - http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?Productid=20967&GroupID=11385&History=30587:21889:2089:10566&ModelID=11385
|
Posted By: Brin
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2010 at 5:18pm
Do you remember what model/brand this was? We are thinking of getting a cover for the fan for our 175 but I wanted to see about one that would also let in the light. ------------- Terri and Craig and Panzer R-pod 175, 2009 2000 F250 XLT Extended Cab, Diesel |
Posted By: pepperpod
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2010 at 7:07pm
|
Brin
We let the dealership talk us out of the clear fantastic fan cover. They said that we would be getting a lot of heat from it. After this past week, it may be good that we did not do it.  Instead, we had them put a window in the door of our 172. It lets in a lot of light. I would like to have a MaxAir cover installed so that we can keep the fan cover open during rainy weather.------------- Pepper,Coach,and Henry (a very brave little Maltese) R Pod 172 The rewards of the journey far outweigh the risk of leaving the harbor...unknown |
Posted By: rpoders2
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2010 at 11:41am
------------- Ellen, Dick (2 legs) Mo Chara (the camping cat) Dudley (the world's best camping dog) RPod 173 '07 Honda Pilot |
Posted By: rlfoxworth
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2010 at 6:05pm
|
Hi,
Can you shed some light on the LED's? Which type and where to get it?
Thanks,
Richard, Angela & Justin (Two & a Half Pioneers)
Exploring with our "Pioneer-Pod"
R-Pod 175 - 2010 Toyota Tundra |
Posted By: rlfoxworth
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2010 at 6:26pm
|
BTW, I just found and tried a 4-watt landscaping lighting wedge bulb for 12volt systems from H.D. and it worked great. I wanted to have a few dimmer lights than all bright ones. They carry packs of 4 for about $5.00 . They carry 4, 7, 11, and 18 watt bulbs.
Richard, Angela & Justin (Two & a Half Pioneers)
Exploring with our "Pioneer-Pod"
R-Pod 175 - 2010 Toyota Tundra |
Posted By: mbmcginity
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 1:48pm
|
LED Bulbs - I've replaced some of the bulbs in our 176 with LED bulbs from superbrightleds.com. It took me some time to figure out their website and identify the correct bulb. I went with WLED-WHP18T Cool White. They are 194/168 Wedge Based. They are described as 12VDC 18 Cool White High Power LED. I put 2 in the fixture over the sink, 2 in the overhead fixture in the center, and 1 in each of the bunk bed reading lights. They were a little less than $20 each plus shipping. Although a bit dimmer, they are bright enough for us and much cooler than the standard incandescent bulbs. When changing the bulbs I noticed that there were already scorch mark in the most used fixtures.
Another item of interest that I learned from their web site was that you should go with an amber LED bulb if using in a fixture with an amber lens like our porch lights. If you use a white one most of the light is filtered out by the amber lens. ------------- New Lone Star Podders |
Posted By: PodPatrol
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2010 at 12:54pm
Great info !!! Thanks for sharing !!! |
Posted By: Don Johnston
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2010 at 10:23pm
|
At the request of profmagickb here is a step by step.
Details of Split Folding Bunk
Step 1. Remove all bedding and mattresses from both bunks. You will be making a lot of sawdust.
2. Mark for the cut. Come out about 1/8th inch from the bathroom wall and with a square, mark a line backward on the bunk, toward the front of the trailer. You can do this on either the top or bottom surface. 3. Make the cut with a power saber saw. You will be able to cut all but the last inch or so on each end (side) of the bunk. Use a hand saw to finish the cut. 4. Separate the bottom piece of plywood from the bunk. It’s stapled on, but the staples are smooth and pry out fairly easily. 5. At the bottom right end of the bunk score a line with a pencil from front to back on the side wall of the trailer. This line will be to locate the right side support under the bunk. 6. Remove the screws from the back side (front of the trailer) and the right side of the bunk. The folding portion of the bunk is now free to take to your shop or where ever to make modifications to it. 7. There are 1" X 2" "studs" running from front to back in the bunk. Add one more stud parallel to the others and just even with the new cut. I glued mine in place and secured that with barbed paneling nails. 8. Get two or three good strong door hinges and inlet them into the rear surface of the bunk. They need to be inletted deep enough so the outside of the hinge is flush with the rear surface. That way the bunk can be fitted back into its original position. Screw the hinges to the bunk. 9. Cut a 1/8" X 2" piece of aluminum to about 42". Round the corners and remove any sharp edges. Screw it to the top left edge of the bunk with about one inch extending over the edge. When the folding bunk is in place the aluminum strip will rest on the top of the portion of the bunk that was not removed. 10. Attach a bar bolt to the bottom right front surface of the bunk. Attach an eye screw to the left front corner. This completes the modifications to the folding portion of the bunk. You can stain and/or finish the cut surfaces. 11. Back inside the trailer there are the cut surfaces of the top and bottom of the remaining bunk. To dress that off, glue and nail another piece of 1" X 2". Depending on how close the last existing "stud" is, you may have to split the new 1" X 2" lengthwise. It cannot extend out past the cut plywood edges, or it will interfere with the folding portion of the bunk. 12. Cut a piece of 3/8" plywood to about 3" X 42". Radius the corners on one edge. Cut a 1" X 2" to 44". Sand both pieces carefully to remove any splinters or sharp edges. Stain and finish both of these to match the interior of the trailer. I used a Pecan stain that matched really well. 13. When the pieces from #12 are dry, glue and screw the plywood to the bottom of the fixed part of the bunk, so approximately one inch of it extends out from the edge as an additional support for the folding part of the bunk. The screws should be at least 1 ½ inch long and should get a good grip in one the studs in the fixed part of the bunk. Use at least one every 4 inches. 14. Glue and screw the 1" X 2" stained piece on the right wall just below the line scribed in step 5 above. The more screws the better in this one. 15. Lay the prepared folding part of the bunk on the supports you just made and mark the bottom position of the hinges with a pencil. 16. Prop the folding bunk up at its highest (folded up) position and locate the hinges at their scribed position. Screw the hinges to the wall. It may help to have a helper for this step. 17. Clean up the sawdust. 18. Put the mattress back on the top bunk, and raise it to its "up" position. Allowing a little room for bedding, mark the position of the bar bolt on the right wall of the trailer. Lower the bunk and drill a hole for the bar bolt. 19. Raise the bunk again and lock the bunk in the up position with the bar bolt. On the left side of the folding bunk I used a wall anchor with an eye screw to secure a hook latch to the ceiling of the trailer. That, with an extra piece of wire attached to the bottom eye screw supports the left end of the bunk when in the up position. I am not completely satisfied with this support but it has held for one year including a trip to Alaska without trouble. Perhaps a strap of velcro might work as well. 20. You will have to cut the right support to clear the bar bolt, and there may be a few other details I've missed. This is about as detailed as I can remember.
      Don Johnston 11-21-10
|
Posted By: profmagickb
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2010 at 1:48pm
|
Don, Thanks for the detailed info, I really appreciate the time you took to explain it. You certainly went above and beyond my expectations. Thanks for being a genius.This is a very much needed mod for my pod. I noticed on the 182G the whole top bunk folds up, pretty neat but you loose the storage. I like what you've done much more.
Thanks again
Clint ------------- I have good ideas....... sometimes 2011 176T why don't you come with me little girl, on a magic R-pod ride |
Posted By: plantkiller
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2011 at 9:24am
|
Don Johnson, Cool windows mods. I also have a 172 and the front is really dark... I just ordered the round door window and the two front bunk windows. Could you please take some close up shots of the windows? Also, did you take the door off to cut the round hole? Thanks in advance. ------------- 2010 R-POD 172 (version 1.0) 2007 NISSAN FRONTIER SE 4x4 w/ Prodigy P3 |
Posted By: kmcmurph
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2011 at 10:08pm
|
I was wondering how much bigger the hole for the socket is in the plywood. I just added one and it is just touching the plywood and I don't know if I should make the hole bigger. I don't think it will get too hot just charging a cell phone? ------------- Karl, Kerri and the hounds:: 5.4L '04 Expedition:: 2010 177 |
Posted By: Bill & Greg
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 1:22pm
|
Sure wish you live closer to Iowa. I would like some help puting in windows. Not sure if I will try it myself or not. If you make a mistake, it would not be good! ------------- 2009 R-Pod 172, 2009 Ford F-150. |
Posted By: Don Johnston
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 10:35pm
Sorry it took so long for this reply. I haven't been as attentive to R-pod Nation as I should be. Here are some pictures of the windows.
I filled the gap between inside and outside frames with black silicone caulking. The "Drapery rod" is velcro.
Also note the net holder next to the window. It's the same as those in the bathroom, from Forest River. Works great for flashlight, glasses, wallet, or anything you might need at night. I put one in the bottom bunk as well.
 The buckling under the window is the decal only. I'm not sure whaat caused that. You can barely see the clear silicone seal around the edges. That's inside and out. Now, here's a couple more mods.
 Solar panel on the left side of the air conditioner. Blocks the AC just a bit, but I rarely use that anyway. It's 50 watts, and should be enough to maintain heat and lights on a moderately cool day, as long as the sun shines a little. There is room for another, on the right side of the AC, if this turns out to be insufficient.
In addition, I've replaced the microwave oven with a 17 inch gas range. I disabled the top burners and removed the grates. It fits the opening almost perfectly. Added some trim around the front.
That should do it for generator free dry camping.
 |
Posted By: Ratdog
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2011 at 7:13am
|
You did a great job with those mods!! They look very good.
I must say, however, that if you need your wallet in the middle of the night, you lead a much more interesting life than I do
 .-- Steve
------------- Steve, Anne, and Paige the Rat Terrier 2013 Lexus RX 450h Hybrid AWD 2011 RP-177 (aka: The Circus Wagon) |
Posted By: sylviablue
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2011 at 8:11pm
|
Great job, looks amazing. I still need a door window!
------------- In the end there's just a song comes cryin up the night |