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Lubricating Bearings and Other Bearing Information

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Category: Forest River r-pod
Forum Name: Maintenance Issues, Tips and Tricks
Forum Description: Have you ever wondered how something works? Found a good way to do something? Discovered the hard way what NOT to do? Share them here.
URL: http://www.rpodNation.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1230
Printed Date: 28 Mar 2024 at 3:29pm
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Topic: Lubricating Bearings and Other Bearing Information
Posted By: Sandpiper
Subject: Lubricating Bearings and Other Bearing Information
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2010 at 4:20pm
The proper procedure for lubricating the wheel bearings on the r-pod is found on the Lippert web site.  Lippert is the manufacturer of the axle and  suspension on the r-pod
The lube procedure is found here.

http://www.lci1.com/OwnersManuals/Trailer-Axle/Trailer%20Axle%20Lube%20ADD-Web.pdf - http://www.lci1.com/OwnersManuals/Trailer-Axle/Trailer%20Axle%20Lube%20ADD-Web.pdf

As you can see, lubricating the bearings on the r-pod is relatively painless.  The grease gun and cartridges can be purchased at Wal-Mart or any auto parts store.  I carry a grease gun with me anytime I'm pulling a trailer and give the bearing a couple of shots of grease before each trip.
The wheel hubs on the r-pod are "Super Lube Hubs" by Lippert which  are equipped with grease fittings for easy greasing. 

The recommended grease is found here on page 7 of this more general manual.

http://www.lci1.com/OwnersManuals/Trailer-Axle/Trailer%20Axle-Web.pdf - http://www.lci1.com/OwnersManuals/Trailer-Axle/Trailer%20Axle-Web.pdf

In researching this information I also discovered Lippert has an on line store where one can purchase replacement parts for the running gear of the r-pod.

http://store.lci1.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=lci&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=935131251&Count2=852271676 - http://store.lci1.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=lci&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=935131251&Count2=852271676

For quick reference:
Complete wheel hub assemblies  from Lippert PN  045-122460  545-1/2" 3500# cost $54.65
This includes the hub, bearings and seal ready to install.

The bearings, races and seal for the tapered axle (1 3/8" X 1 1/16") are as follows:
Inner Bearing L68149, Inner race L68111
Outer Bearing L44649, Outer race L44610

EDIT:Added more seal part numbers
Double Lip Seal  Trailer Axle Hub 1.72" ID X 2.565" OD  Lippert # 045-122087 or Dexter # 010-019-00, National 473336, NOK AD2548E0, TCM 171255TB, SKF CR17144

All of the above can be purchased as kits complete for one wheel.   For example eastern marine offers this kit. Other kits can be purchased from auto parts stores, tractor supply stores etc.

http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=4730&categoryID=188 - http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=4730&categoryID=188
Which sells for $14.50 but has a single lip seal and I would recommend a double lip seal for better sealing.

I always carry an extra set of bearings, races and seal in case the bearings decide to give up the ghost at the worst possible time.  But I am now considering carring a complete hub assembly for the same reason.  It would make getting back on the road much, much simpler and much less of a hassle.










-------------
Sandpiper
Mrs.'Piper
Ford 150-[Mini Lite 2104S]



Replies:
Posted By: HobitPod
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2010 at 11:05pm
Thanks for that info. There was none of that in the package that I got with the RPod. When I had the Tent Trailer all that information came with the Fleetwood unit. If I had that info I may have been able to check them but your not sure without it. Anyway will be picking up the 175 in a couple of days and may see if I can contact Forest River about the bearings and may even send them to find out if there was a problem with them or not. Thanks again for all your information and ideas

-------------
05 Avalanche: 5.3L: HobitPod-175 Jim & Sue


Posted By: Larry
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2010 at 2:14am

Thank you very much for the information. This would have never crossed my mind because I got absolutely no info on this when I purchased my pod and I never lubricated the bearings on my previous trailer, which I did a lot of camping in for almost 6-years; so because of my ignorance would you please explain in simple terms why we need to lubricate the bearings?  I'm really learning a lot here.

Thanks!Thumbs Up



Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2010 at 6:23am
Originally posted by Sandpiper Sandpiper wrote:

I carry a grease gun with me anytime I'm pulling a trailer and give the bearing a couple of shots of grease before each trip.
The wheel hubs on the r-pod are "Super Lube Hubs" by Lippert which  are equipped with grease fittings for easy greasing. 
Are your rims different from mine?  In order to access the zerk fitting, I have to jack up the trailer and take the tire off.


-------------
Craig :: 2008 Mazda Tribute :: 2009 r-pod 171, The Johnnie Ray


Posted By: HuronSailor
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2010 at 7:15am
Great info, thanks for doing the research. I've printed it and added it to my rPod info folder I keep "aboard."

-------------
.: Mark & Beth :: Silverado 5.3L :: "arrrr"Pod 172 :: http://picasaweb.google.com/mark.a.mowery - My Albums :: http://ourrpod.blogspot.com/ - OurPod Blog ::


Posted By: Sandpiper
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2010 at 7:42am
  [/QUOTE]
Are your rims different from mine?  In order to access the zerk fitting, I have to jack up the trailer and take the tire off.
[/QUOTE]
Well, I don't know for sure since I haven't seen your wheels but on mine the silver (chrome ) center piece must be pried out thereby exposing the rubber cover in the center piece under the outside cover and covering the grease fitting.  That isn't a very good explanation.
 If you look at the picture on the bottom of the page found at this link you will see an item labeled "Plug" .  That plug is removable exposing the underlying rubber cover.
http://www.lci1.com/OwnersManuals/Trailer-Axle/Trailer%20Axle%20Lube%20ADD-Web.pdf - http://www.lci1.com/OwnersManuals/Trailer-Axle/Trailer%20Axle%20Lube%20ADD-Web.pdf
Hope this helps.

EDIT
Oops,  that isn't right.  There is a second Plug which must be attached to the wheel but it too is removable because I removed and reinstalled it yesterday. It is plastic so be careful removing it.



-------------
Sandpiper
Mrs.'Piper
Ford 150-[Mini Lite 2104S]


Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2010 at 7:46am
For clarity on my question asking whether things have changed on later-model r-pods: on my 2009 RP171, there's some work to get to the grease nipple...

First, the rim/tire has to be removed,
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2973082730105331225nZOGJf">


Then, the dust cap must be removed,
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2843163180105331225IQWRpu">


AHA!  There's the Zerk fitting!  ( http://image76.webshots.com/76/9/2/7/2282902070105331225QYXbxY_fs.jpg - Click Here for a higher-resoution shot where you can see the Zerk fitting in the middle of the hub)
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2282902070105331225QYXbxY">


-------------
Craig :: 2008 Mazda Tribute :: 2009 r-pod 171, The Johnnie Ray


Posted By: Sandpiper
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2010 at 9:01am
Outbound
The wheel and hubs that you show in your pictures are the same ones that are on my r-pod.
You do not have to remove the tire and wheel to get to the grease zert.
The center of the silver cover in your first picture is removable. I know it doesn't look like it is but it is.
The black center of the dust cap in your second picture is rubber and it too is removable.  By removing the two covers (plugs) the grease zert is reachable without removing the wheel or the whole dust cap.  The hard part is removing the first(outside )cover because as I said it is plastic and very tight but it is removable.
I hope this clears things up.  If not let me know and when it warms up, it is 20 deg F out side right now, I will take pictures and post them to show what I am talking about.

The sad part of all this is that Forest River should have put this information in their Manual.


-------------
Sandpiper
Mrs.'Piper
Ford 150-[Mini Lite 2104S]


Posted By: Sandpiper
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2010 at 9:45am
Originally posted by Larry Larry wrote:

Thank you very much for the information. This would have never crossed my mind because I got absolutely no info on this when I purchased my pod and I never lubricated the bearings on my previous trailer, which I did a lot of camping in for almost 6-years; so because of my ignorance would you please explain in simple terms why we need to lubricate the bearings?  I'm really learning a lot here.

Thanks!Thumbs Up


Larry, you are right about going long periods of time without lubeing your bearings nor repacking them.  It is something a lot of people don't do.  I pulled a trailerable boat for a lot of years and was acutely aware that the wheels were submerged in water every time I went sailing.  Even though I faithfully repacked the bearings every year and gave them a couple of shots of grease before every trip I still had a catastrophic failure once in 17 years.  Once was enough and luckily I had spare bearings, races and seal to make repairs on the road.  I'm considering purchasing a spare complete hub just as an insurance policy in case it happens on the r-pod.  Lippert sells the complete hub with bearing, races and seal already packed with grease for about $55 .   I think that is a pretty inexpensive insurance policy but still no substitute for proper maintenance.

To answer your question as to why you should regularly lubricate your bearings and repack or have them repacked at least once a year of 12,000 miles. 
In normal operating conditions the grease heats up and over time becomes less effective.  It also will collect dust and metal particles from the rotating parts of the hub and axle.  If the seal becomes torn or worn to the point it doesn't seal properly, dirt, water and other contaminants can enter the hub and cause wear to the internal components.  If the seal doesn't seal, it can allow grease to exit the hub and get on the brake components and make the brakes ineffective.

By giving the hubs a couple of squirts of grease each time you take a trip you push some of the old grease out and new grease is introduced thereby replacing the grease along with any contaminants over time. If you check the old grease that comes out you can detect early if water has entered the system or if lots of dirt is getting into the system. 

 By repacking the bearings annually or every 12,000 miles you allow yourself to evaluate all of the components in the hub-axle system and  replace any that are worn.  The seal is replaced every time the bearings are repacked as a part of the repacking procedure so you have a new seal each time the wheels are repacked.  Something else to remember is that if a bearing needs to be replaced, always replace the matching race.   A second benefit to repacking the bearings is that the hubs must be removed exposing the brakes and the brake components can be checked and replaced or adjusted if required.

There are most likely other reasons for lubricating the bearings and repacking but I can't think of them right now.  After saying all the above, let me say there are sealed systems that do not require periodic lubrication but the hub-axle system on the r-pod isn't one of them.  At least not yet.


-------------
Sandpiper
Mrs.'Piper
Ford 150-[Mini Lite 2104S]


Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2010 at 10:19am
Originally posted by Sandpiper Sandpiper wrote:

The hard part is removing the first(outside )cover because as I said it is plastic and very tight but it is removable.
The next time I have my r-pod home from the storage lot, I'll take a look at it.  However, my impression was that its a 1-piece metal cup.


-------------
Craig :: 2008 Mazda Tribute :: 2009 r-pod 171, The Johnnie Ray


Posted By: Larry
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2010 at 4:08pm
Thank you very much Sandpiper; you have given me a much valued education.


Posted By: WE-2
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 11:59am
A suggestion. Though this is my 1st TT, I've been pulling boat and other trailers for many years. After much repacking and replacemant of bearings, I learned about Amsoil Synthetic grease. It runs much cooler and lasts much longer. I've also not had to replace bearings in a long time.
 I will top off the POD bearings with this and expect to remain trouble free.
 
check it out at  http://www.amsoil.com - www.amsoil.com


-------------
Dick & Kyra
2010 174 L'il B'ger
09 Dakota 4.7L       
Hampton, Va.


Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 3:47pm
I was taught not to mix brands of grease.  I have no idea if this applies to mixing synth grease or not... but it might not be a bad idea to do some research first.

That said, I love Amsoil products and have used Amsoil in my dirtbikes and sportbikes for years and really noticed a difference in engine wear and engine temperature versus dino.


-------------
Craig :: 2008 Mazda Tribute :: 2009 r-pod 171, The Johnnie Ray


Posted By: photog
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2010 at 4:55pm
Originally posted by WE-2 WE-2 wrote:

A suggestion. Though this is my 1st TT, I've been pulling boat and other trailers for many years. After much repacking and replacemant of bearings, I learned about Amsoil Synthetic grease. It runs much cooler and lasts much longer. I've also not had to replace bearings in a long time.
 I will top off the POD bearings with this and expect to remain trouble free.
 
check it out at  http://www.amsoil.com - www.amsoil.com
 
You are right about syntetic grease running cooler but if you have a seal failure and the grease gets contaminated it needs to be cleaned out and changed just the same.
 
Topping of with another type of grease is not a good idea, the interaction of the different chemicals could leed to seal failure as well as damage the bearings.
 
Take care,


-------------
Heinrich and Elly

2010 Dodge Dakota Crew Cab
Prime Time Tracer 205 M


Posted By: capringl
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 1:16am
Awesome post Sandpiper! This is really good stuff!

-------------
Craig
R-Pod 172
2008 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon


Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 8:21am
Originally posted by Sandpiper Sandpiper wrote:

The center of the silver cover in your first picture is removable. I know it doesn't look like it is but it is.
By gum, you're right.  I stand corrected.

That plastic piece looks very brittle, tho.  Has anyone seen replacements anywhere?  I'm sure to break/crack mine.


-------------
Craig :: 2008 Mazda Tribute :: 2009 r-pod 171, The Johnnie Ray


Posted By: Sandpiper
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 2:34pm
Outbound
I checked with the company that makes the rims and they have an catalog that shows the center covers and the caps.
I'll look up the info later today and post it
OK here is the information on the center caps and rims.
The company is Tredit Tire and their number is 800-795-4437.
There web site for their catalog is
http://www.tredittire.com/Catalog.html - http://www.tredittire.com/Catalog.html
The rim is TO3-45545T  and the center cap is CO319 found on page 13 of the catalog.
I guess you have to call or email them to order parts.


-------------
Sandpiper
Mrs.'Piper
Ford 150-[Mini Lite 2104S]


Posted By: WE-2
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 3:22pm
Originally posted by photog photog wrote:

Originally posted by WE-2 WE-2 wrote:

A suggestion. Though this is my 1st TT, I've been pulling boat and other trailers for many years. After much repacking and replacemant of bearings, I learned about Amsoil Synthetic grease. It runs much cooler and lasts much longer. I've also not had to replace bearings in a long time.
 I will top off the POD bearings with this and expect to remain trouble free.
 
check it out at  http://www.amsoil.com - www.amsoil.com
 
You are right about syntetic grease running cooler but if you have a seal failure and the grease gets contaminated it needs to be cleaned out and changed just the same.
 
Topping of with another type of grease is not a good idea, the interaction of the different chemicals could leed to seal failure as well as damage the bearings.
 
Take care,
   Actually Amsoil grease is compatible with most greases. So , topping off isn't a problem unless there's an unusual, exotic grease in there.
  I agreee repacking is best if there's a need.  However with good bearings  and good seals, topping off will give you all the protection you need.
  Semper Fi


-------------
Dick & Kyra
2010 174 L'il B'ger
09 Dakota 4.7L       
Hampton, Va.


Posted By: yakers
Date Posted: 06 May 2010 at 10:15pm
This in not related to the bearing issue, but it has to do with the size of the lug nuts on the wheels and the spare.   I am not sure if they are all this way, but you should check before you hit the road. We have a 2009 174 and the wheel and the spare nuts are not the same size. You will need to be sure to have both sizes if you ever need to change the tire.  On my 174 the lug nuts on the wheels are 13/16 inch nuts and the nuts that hold the spare on the back are 3/4 inch nuts.  Be sure to have both size sockets. 

-------------
2009 174
2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Trek Tandem Bike
Hobie Tandem Kayak


Posted By: Sandpiper
Date Posted: 06 May 2010 at 10:52pm
yakers
That is good to know.  I carry a four way lug wrench but will check to make sure it will fit both sizes.  Thanks for posting the information.


-------------
Sandpiper
Mrs.'Piper
Ford 150-[Mini Lite 2104S]


Posted By: PodPatrol
Date Posted: 06 May 2010 at 11:06pm
I too carry a 4x and will check that as well. Thanks for the heads-up yakers !!!


Posted By: boldham
Date Posted: 25 May 2010 at 1:13am

Great info. Thanks!

If you're as thick skulled as me you'll yank on the entire chromed plastic cap for a while before realizing that it is just the end piece that comes off. You'll see the seam between the tubular part and the end piece. See fancy drawing below for clarification. I used a couple of screwdrivers to pry it off.


Posted By: George
Date Posted: 25 May 2010 at 4:14am
When I did the first original run through when I picked up our R-pod I asked the guy showing us everything to show me how to remove the cap to grease the bearings.  He tried to remove the cap and gave up saying he was afraid he'd break it if he tried harder.  I was in a hurry (stupid! - I know) but I let it go.  Now, I regret not making him show me how to remove the plastic cap.  RATS!Pinch

-------------
I can't stop dreaming about June 15, 2013 when we get to permanently escape in our "Escape Pod" which is a 176T towed by a Chevy van with a 5.7L engine.


Posted By: PodPatrol
Date Posted: 25 May 2010 at 9:03am
Thanks to the Sand-man/Outbound, those of us hoping to greese the wheels know what
to do, and what not to do now.

Thanks to everyone that contributed to the Bearings issue.


Posted By: boldham
Date Posted: 25 May 2010 at 9:38am
Originally posted by George George wrote:

When I did the first original run through when I picked up our R-pod I asked the guy showing us everything to show me how to remove the cap to grease the bearings.  He tried to remove the cap and gave up saying he was afraid he'd break it if he tried harder.  I was in a hurry (stupid! - I know) but I let it go.  Now, I regret not making him show me how to remove the plastic cap.  RATS!Pinch
Don't worry, it is very easy as long as you're trying to remove the right piece! A couple of screwdrivers are handy to pry it off (very similar to removing a hub cap!).


Posted By: Ellis
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2010 at 5:18pm

Thanks for all the good information. I'm concerned about pulling the first cover. Can someone explain if the outer cap that covers the inter (grease plug) rotates or just pulls out and off.  This looks like I can break pretty easy.Ouch



-------------
Bob & Linda Ellis
plus Lowie the Westie
2011 R-POD 177 / 2000 Dodge Dakota


Posted By: PodPatrol
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2010 at 5:30pm
Its a pull push thingy.... no turning needed. It will have to be encouraged via the excellent instructions supplied here by members.


Posted By: Ellis
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2010 at 5:33pm
OK never mind. The key to removing the outer-cap (grease) is two use a small screwdriver and remove the cap like a bike tire. Thanks. Big smile

-------------
Bob & Linda Ellis
plus Lowie the Westie
2011 R-POD 177 / 2000 Dodge Dakota


Posted By: PodPatrol
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2010 at 5:50pm
Good Luck Ellis ... U can Do It !!!


Posted By: MacTx53
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2010 at 10:25pm
If you look real careful at the seam where the cap meets the wheel as shown in the technical drawing supplied by Boldham; there is an ever so slight indent to place the screw driver for the first pry. I found it after I had the cap in my hand and was inspecting the nicks and scratches from my handy work. The 'other' cap popped off easy with no scratches or nicks. 



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