DRAINING HOT WATER TANK?
Printed From: r-pod Nation
Category: Forest River r-pod
Forum Name: Maintenance Issues, Tips and Tricks
Forum Description: Have you ever wondered how something works? Found a good way to do something? Discovered the hard way what NOT to do? Share them here.
URL: http://www.rpodNation.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=2124
Printed Date: 19 Apr 2024 at 4:54am
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Topic: DRAINING HOT WATER TANK?
Posted By: ibosket
Subject: DRAINING HOT WATER TANK?
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 2:58pm
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Currently winterizing an r-pod 175 with a Suburban hot water tank. I've drained the fresh water, leaving the hot water tank in-line with the system. I then closed it's hot/cold water valves and turned on the by-pass valve, then blew out the water system with compressed air. All went as planned. However, both the general Forest River RV manual and the specific hot water heater manual both say to drain the hot water tank. I can't find any way to do that, aside from what I've already done. Does anyone know of a separate drain valve on the HWT? Should I leave the HWT in-line when I blow out the system? I don't want water in there over the winter here as the temps can easily reach -10 or lower. Thanks! ------------- Curt / 2009 r-pod 175 / 2010 Toyota Tundra |
Replies:
Posted By: kmcmurph
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 3:11pm
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As far as I know, open the panel on the outside of the pod, remove the anode rod at the botttom of the tank and let the water drain out. Opening the pressure relief valve at the top of the tank will allow air to circulate and get more of the water out. ------------- Karl, Kerri and the hounds:: 5.4L '04 Expedition:: 2010 177 |
Posted By: ibosket
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 3:44pm
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OK -- got it. Do you know what size socket is needed for that? Thanks! ------------- Curt / 2009 r-pod 175 / 2010 Toyota Tundra |
Posted By: ibosket
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 5:39pm
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I measured -- it's a 1" fitting. Thanks! ------------- Curt / 2009 r-pod 175 / 2010 Toyota Tundra |
Posted By: Ratdog
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 5:46pm
A 1" socket did not work on mine. Had to buy a 17/16" (~ $10 at Ace Hardware).
-- Steve ------------- Steve, Anne, and Paige the Rat Terrier 2013 Lexus RX 450h Hybrid AWD 2011 RP-177 (aka: The Circus Wagon) |
ibosket wrote:Posted By: kmcmurph
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 10:35pm
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My socket size is 1-1/16" to pull the anode rod. Then just use a little teflon tape to re-install. Do not over tighten the anode rod. Just remember to wrap the teflon tape the right way! ------------- Karl, Kerri and the hounds:: 5.4L '04 Expedition:: 2010 177 |
Posted By: ka9nyn
Date Posted: 11 Oct 2010 at 12:29am
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After draining my heater, I use a piece of semirigid plastic tubing, duct taped onto wet vac hose.
I use this rig to suck the last bit out. Worked well on my pop-up, so should be ok for
same heater on R-Pod. ------------- Dave & Rose Chamberlain, SD 2010 R-177 "ECM-Pod" '08 Dodge RAM quad cab 5.7L 4WD "Rhino (re: F-4 Phantom)" Exelon Nuclear (Retired) US Army Corps of Engineers (Current) |
Posted By: gepaine
Date Posted: 11 Oct 2010 at 1:38am
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If you blow out your water lines (rather than fill them with anti-freeze), you can leave the water heater "inline" with the rest of the system. There is no need to bypass it. ------------- Gene & Linda - 2007 Escalade - 24-Foot Keystone Cougar TT- Life is not just about gas mileage! |
Posted By: Cityfox
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2010 at 8:07am
| Our 151 takes an 1 1/6" socket w/3/4 drive. I only had a 1/2" drive so I had to buy a 1/2, 3/4 drive adapter for my 1/2" drive. It worked out great. I had to do that very thing last month. In fact, we drain our hot water heater after every camping trip and I keep my tools right in the POD or truck. On suggestion, if you remove the drain plug, it had a rod attached to it similar to a residential hot water heater. Make sure when you put it back in the threads line up properly. If it gets crossed threaded, leaks could develop. I also use teflon tape on the threads when I put the plug back in. Good luck |
Posted By: Ratdog
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2010 at 8:15am
1-1/16" sockets for 1/2" drive are readily available so there's no need to buy the socket and the adaptor. I paid about $10 for the socket at Ace Hardware.
-- Steve ------------- Steve, Anne, and Paige the Rat Terrier 2013 Lexus RX 450h Hybrid AWD 2011 RP-177 (aka: The Circus Wagon) |
Posted By: web2323
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2010 at 8:21am
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I have tried for hours to get my anode out. The darn thing won't budge.
I was practically jumping on the ratchet and it won't move!
I think I may have to hit it with the air gun.
Any tips?
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Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2010 at 9:55am
De-pressurize the system by turning on the kitchen faucets.
------------- Craig :: 2008 Mazda Tribute :: 2009 r-pod 171, The Johnnie Ray |
Posted By: Jinhe&Me
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2010 at 12:04pm
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I had the same problem with mine. I tried in vain for hours with every imaginable tool. I had to borrow a friend who spends time every day at the gym and has the muscle to show for it. He also has a trailer of his own and thought there was something wrong with me that I couldn't tackle the anode. Till he tried. After he got bloodied up from getting sliced by the exhaust cover and with me applying pressure to keep the socket in place, the thing finally moved. Glad we did get it off as there was a lot of water in the tank. I had depressurized it as well before the attempts but likely a combination of being installed a bit overtightened and some apparent corrosion, it was a bear to get loose. ------------- R-Pod 176 2010 Nissan Pathfinder LE |
Posted By: rpodmania
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2010 at 1:34pm
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Ya the first time I tried to remove mine last fall took a lot of effort to get the thing to start turning Its was way over tightened at the factory you gotta wonder what these people are thinking that assemble the parts  ------------- 2010 171 Ford f-150 5.4L |
Posted By: gepaine
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 1:19pm
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Does anyone know if there is a torque spec for the drain plug? If we knew how much torque to apply, then we won't over tighten it nor should it leak. ------------- Gene & Linda - 2007 Escalade - 24-Foot Keystone Cougar TT- Life is not just about gas mileage! |
Posted By: movingwaters
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 2:28pm
| What should the anode rod look like when removed? When I removed it, it is covered with white gooky material and looks corroded. However, I know they are supposed to disintegrate with time as they do the job and have to be replaced. So how do you know when to replace? Are the rods available at most RV places? Cost? Ours is a 3 year old r pod but we don't usually use the water heater......it has had very little use. Thanks. |
Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 3:33pm
Technically, the anode should be replaced when most of the sacrificial material (usually aluminium, sometimes magnesium) has been eaten away, leaving just the metal core. But, as most of us check the anode once a year, it should be done when there's not enough sacrificial material left to last until the next time you check the anode. The speed at which the anode wears away differs depending on the water; for me, it seems to be three seasons. You can buy a replacement plug+anode from most any RV dealership. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/suburban-anode-rod-replacement/42180 - Camping World's Suburban anode page has a good picture of a new and worn out anode. ------------- Craig :: 2008 Mazda Tribute :: 2009 r-pod 171, The Johnnie Ray |
Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 3:37pm
I've since been advised not to do this. After its a couple of years old, the relief valve may not seat itself properly again and may leak. ------------- Craig :: 2008 Mazda Tribute :: 2009 r-pod 171, The Johnnie Ray |
Posted By: Sandpiper
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 3:58pm
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I deleted what I was going to say since Outbound said all I was going to say. ------------- Sandpiper Mrs.'Piper Ford 150-[Mini Lite 2104S] |
Posted By: Mary & Don
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 5:52pm
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A seasoned camper recently told us that when the anode is bare we should just insert a radiator plug and discard the anode because the material on the anode would have coated the hot water tank and there is no need to replace. What do you think? ------------- Mary & Don R-Pod 175 Columbus, Ohio Life is good in R-Pod! |
Posted By: Sandpiper
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 10:31pm
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I can't give an intelligence chemical discussion as to why you should replace the anode but I can give an economical reason. A replacement anode will cost somewhere around $15.00 and last at least 3 years ($5 per year) and can be replaced in about 10 minutes. A replacement hot water heater will cost some where around $ 280 to $300 and take about an entire half a day to replace. Some how I doubt you would get 5 years out of a water heater without an anode but I could be wrong but guessing 5 years that would work out to be at least $56 per year. Personnally I will take the former route and replace the anode. The other point in favor of replacing the anode is the manufacturer wouldn't put them in if they weren't needed and save the cost . Now maybe one of our chemists can chime in and give us the chemical reason for replacing it or look it up in in Wikipedia. Well OK I will. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacrificial_anode#Choosing_the_Correct_Anode - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacrificial_anode#Choosing_the_Correct_Anode I do know the anode doesn't coat the inside of the water heater but the reacted material is carried off in the water. As stated in Wikipedia, the anodes used in fresh water are magnesium and in brackish water are aluminum and in sea water are usually zinc. ------------- Sandpiper Mrs.'Piper Ford 150-[Mini Lite 2104S] |
Posted By: Heidi
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2010 at 12:51am
I am always amazed at the information shared here and the experts that we have. Thanks so much
------------- we R-pod people 175 ,2 peeps and one small horse |
Posted By: R&T's Pod
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2010 at 6:51am
My undergrad degree is in Chemistry. So I will offer an explaination that may be helpful. Water has nasties  that love to attack (chew holes in) the walls of your hot water heater. The water being hot (at times) speeds up this attack. Think of the anode rod as CHOCOLATE YUMMIES  for the nasties in the water. They attack the anode rod, leaving our water heaters alone. I hope this helps.  Rob
ps. Either it's this explaination or the one with lots of long words, funny letter and number combinations, and guaranteed to put you to sleep very quickly. ------------- 2010 R-Pod 175 2007 F-150 Super Cab http://www.rtspod.blogspot.com" rel="nofollow - R&T's Podding Blog 
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Posted By: Sandpiper
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2010 at 9:55am
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Rob Where were you when I had to struggle through Physical Chemistry  on my way to getting my piece of paper back in the dark ages ?  You could have given me the simplified explanations when I needed them. Now I understand everything I need to know about anodes.  I kept getting hung up on Mg's and Al's and +'s and -'s and anions and cations and electron's crawling around and all that boring stuff. Thanks for helping me get it straight .  ------------- Sandpiper Mrs.'Piper Ford 150-[Mini Lite 2104S] |
Posted By: R&T's Pod
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2010 at 11:17am
Haha Sandpiper,
My P-Chem professor frequently didn't show up to class on time. (I had to have four semesters of P-Chem too!) So we would have to go find him. We often found him talking to a wall, in one building or another on campus. I think all those "+" and "-" had done him in too!  Rob------------- 2010 R-Pod 175 2007 F-150 Super Cab http://www.rtspod.blogspot.com" rel="nofollow - R&T's Podding Blog
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Posted By: rpoders2
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2010 at 11:23am
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Did I really hear "chocolate' and "chemistry" in the same post? This is a great place! ------------- Ellen, Dick (2 legs) Mo Chara (the camping cat) Dudley (the world's best camping dog) RPod 173 '07 Honda Pilot |
Posted By: Mary & Don
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2010 at 1:46pm
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Thanks for the intellligent answers. I think we will opt to replace the anode. Next summer will be our 3rd year so will check it out at the end of the season. ------------- Mary & Don R-Pod 175 Columbus, Ohio Life is good in R-Pod! |
Posted By: Sandpiper
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2010 at 9:16pm
After reading the above post and checking my manual and then searching for the part number (232767) on the web and reading camping worlds description for their rod, supposedly suburban # 231767, as being aluminum when other sites said the same part number was magnesium I gave up and wrote an e-mail to Suburban for clarification. Asking them if the rod in our water heaters, part # 232767 aluminum or magnesium ? Today I received an answer from Mr Louie Richard, assistant service manager. A copy of his reply is shown below. " The 232767 is magnesium And the 232768 is aluminum. ------------- Sandpiper Mrs.'Piper Ford 150-[Mini Lite 2104S] |